As with any internal combustion engine, the most effective way to ensure long life for your motorcycle engine is to change its oil frequently. Keeping the oil in good condition is critical because it reduces the amount of friction on the engine's moving metal parts, preventing them from overheating. Over time oil breaks down and accumulates particles that will damage engine parts. In this demonstration we change the oil on a newer motorcycle as well as on a classic model. The newer one is a 1996 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster. The older one is a 1972 Harley Davidson Superglide. The process is essentially the same for each, but there are a few specific differences. Important: Following are the steps used to change the oil on the two motorcycles used in our demonstration. This summary should be regarded as a general guideline only. There are likely to be differences in procedures for other motorcycle brands or models. Consult your motorcycle's service manual for specific information that you may need when changing the oil and filter on your particular cycle. Changing Oil on an Older Motorcycle Materials: Replacement engine oil and oil filter
Socket wrench
Needle-nose pliers
Catch basin
Rags or paper towels
- Locate the drain plug (figure A) and the filler cap (figure B) on the oil tank. On a warm (but not hot) engine, remove the filler cap to allow the pressure to equalize and the oil to settle toward the bottom.
- Position a catch basin directly beneath the drain plug to catch the spent oil as it drains out.
Tip: Cut a piece of cardboard, then fold and position it to channel the oil into the catch basin as it drains out. This will help reduce mess. - With the cardboard channel in place, use a socket wrench or offset box-end wrench to remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil tank, and allow the old oil to drain out into the pan (figure C).
- Once all of the old oil has drained from the tank, replace the drain plug.
- The oil filter on many older motorcycles is accessible from beneath the seat. Remove any bolts or other fasteners holding the seat in place and carefully lift it off (figure D).
- The oil filter is housed in a removable filter-canister. Remove the lid from the filter housing, being careful not to lose the rubber gasket that's located beneath the lid. Once the lid is off, carefully remove the oil-filter canister (figure E).
- Remove the retaining clip and cap that holds the filter securely inside the canister, and carefully lift out the old filter (figure F). Removing the clip may require the use of needle-nose pliers. Use caution as you remove the retaining clip since some filters are spring-loaded; the cap may pop off abruptly.
- Replace the old oil filter with a new one, and reverse the steps to reinstall the filter and canister.
- With the drain-plug in place, fill the oil tank with the amount of oil specified in your motorcycle's service manual. (The model used in our demonstration required four quarts of oil.) Once you've added the fresh oil, replace the filler cap.
Changing Oil on a Newer Motorcycle The process for changing oil on a newer motorcycle is essentially the same, but there are some differences with respect to the procedure for draining and the placement of the filter. The filter on most new models is similar to the familiar screw-on canister type found on automobiles. Materials: Replacement engine-oil and oil filter
Socket wrench
Strap wrench
Screwdriver
Catch basin
Rags or paper towels
- Most new motorcycles lack the older, bolt-style drain plug. Instead, the oil is simply drained by removing one end of a drain hose. The hose is held in place with a worm-style hose clamp. On a warm (but not hot) engine, use a screwdriver to remove the clamp from one end of the drain hose, then disconnect the hose and direct it so that the oil drains into the catch basin.
- In the case of newer motorcycles, the filter is visible on the side of the engine. The placement of the filter, however, may make it difficult to access with an oil-filter wrench. An alternative is to use a strap-wrench in conjunction with an ordinary open-end wrench (figure G).
- Once you break the filter free using the strap wrench, carefully loosen the filter by hand (figure H).
Tip: Before removing the filter, cut a piece of cardboard, then fold and position it to channel any excess oil into the catch basin as it drains out. This will help reduce mess. - With the cardboard channel in place, remove the filter, and allow any excess oil to drain (figure I). When you remove the filter, check to see whether the rubber filter-gasket comes off with the filter. (If the gasket does not come off with the filter, you'll need to remove it from the filter seat.)
- Use a rag to clean the surface of the filter seat (figure J), removing any grit, debris or remnants of the rubber gasket.
- Just as you would with an oil filter for a car, lubricate the rubber gasket on the new filter before installing it (figure K). This will help ensure a good seal and prevent the rubber gasket from sticking to the filter seat when the engine heats up.
- Install the new filter by reversing the process you used to remove the old one, then fill the oil tank with the amount of oil specified in your motorcycle's service manual.
RESOURCES :
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Motorcycles
ISBN: 0028624165
Author: editors of Motorcyclist magazine
Some motorcycles provided by Knoxville Harley Davidson
Knoxville Harley Davidson
5800 Clinton Highway
Knoxville, TN 37912
Phone: 865-689-2454
Toll-free: 800-637-6386
Web site: www.smokymtnmall.com/mall/harley
Motorcycle Tuning: Two Stroke
Model: 075061806X
Author: John Robinson
(1994)
To order this title from Amazon.com, click here.
Butterworth-Heinemann
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