| Engine Replacement, Part 3 -- Engine Disassembly, Bottom |
From "Weekend Mechanic"
episode WKM-205 |
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Bottom-Side Engine Disassembly With engine accessories removed from the top portion of the engine, work can continue beneath the vehicle with the car jacked up and supported on jack-stands (figure A). The steps shown in this segment took place beginning on the second day of this project. Important: Included below are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of replacement engine and parts you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts. Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools and when working beneath a vehicle. Safety Alert: Be certain that the jack and jack-stands you use are rated for the weight of your vehicle. - Once you're able to access the underside of the vehicle, twist the tire out of the way to give you access to the water pump, and unbolt the water-pump pulley (figure B).
Important: Take note of the front and back-sides of the pulley. If they aren't already marked, mark them "front" and "back" to ensure they aren't installed backwards during re-assembly.
- Next, unbolt the adjuster bracket for the alternator (figure C). Once unbolted, the bracket should lift out easily (figure D).
- Disconnect the lower radiator hose, being certain to catch any remaining coolant in a drain pan.
- Reaching from beneath the vehicle, unbolt and remove the power-steering bracket (figure E).With the bracket removed, the power-steering pump can be lowered out of the way. It's a good idea to tie the pump to a secure location so that it doesn't fall or spill fluid.
- Next, unbolt and remove the exhaust shield for the drive-axle CV-boot (figure F).
- Disconnect the exhaust pipe so that it can be removed from the exhaust manifold. The pipe is held in place with two spring-loaded bolts (figure G). These bolts take a lot of wear, and should be replaced in conjunction with the new engine.
Safety Alert: Use caution and be sure to wear eye protection when you remove these spring-loaded bolts, as they may spring loose with some force. - When removing the transmission brace, a large piece of the engine block was found hanging loosely from brace (figure H). This is where a part of the engine's wall has completely broken loose due to the damage the engine has sustained.
- The next step is to unbolt and remove the rear mount that holds the engine and transmission.
Safety Alert: When removing the rear mount, it's extremely important to make certain that the other two motor-mounts are secure and in good shape, and the engine is well supported. Otherwise, the engine assembly could fall out while you are beneath the vehicle. - Once you've taken the necessary safety precautions, unbolt the mount using a breaker bar and large socket (figure I).
Important: As you remove the motor mount, the engine will shift, and may leak some fluids. Be sure that you have your safety glasses on, and a drain-pan handy. - Next, remove the lower bolt holding the starter in place, then remove upper two bolts from above. With the bolts removed, the starter can be lifted out (figure J).
- Remove the flywheel cover to access the torque-converter bolts. In our case, only two of the bolts could be reached and removed easily (figure K).
- In order to reach the remaining bolts, a breaker bar must be used to manually turn the engine's crankshaft (figure L).
- Because the engine is so damaged, and is locked up, this procedure proved difficult. In order to continue, the oil pan had to be unbolted and removed by lowering it out of the way (figure M).
- With the oil-pan removed, the extent of the engine damage was revealed. Two of the engine's rods were broken (figure N). The rod caps were removed next in order to free up the engine so that it could turn. At this point, there's no need to use particular caution to protect the engine parts, since it is now obvious that the engine will need to be replaced.
- One of the connecting rods had broken loose and was reduced to mangled metal (figure O) when this engine failed.
- With the twisted and damaged parts freed up, the camshaft could be turned to access and remove the last two torque-converter bolts.
In the segment that follows, the engine is disconnected from its remaining mounts and lifted out of the vehicle using an engine hoist.
RESOURCES :
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
Author: Dan Ramsey
ISBN: 0028635833
Alpha Books
How Cars Work
Author: Tom Newton
ISBN: 0966862309
Publisher: Black Apple Press
Auto Repair for Dummies
Author: Deanna Sclar
ISBN: 0764550896
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