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Scion TC: Autocross Suspension Multi-Upgrade Before Andrew Totolos is done with this Scion TC, it'll corner like a 911 and grip track pavement like flypaper. From "Tricked Out" episode DTRK-403

(Continued from page 4)

	Matching camber settings
	Tools used in installing the camber kit

Scion Suspension Upgrade, Part 3:
Where the Rubber Hits the Road — Install Adjustable Camber Kit

Now that the body has been tightened, Andrew installs an adjustable camber kit to assure that the Scion's tires stick to the ground when the owner speeds through the course.

Materials and tools used in this phase of the project:

standard shop tools
camber kit
camber/caster gauge
new front strut bolts
jack and stands
air ratchet

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	Camber refers to the angle of the tires with respect to the ground. Adjusting camber can be important for particular styles of driving or racing.
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	Camber gauge

Camber: It's All About Angles

Camber is an alignment term that refers to the angle of the tires as they hit the ground. "Positive camber" means that a pair of tires are leaning out at the top a bit, while "negative camber" means that they're leaning in. Zero camber tires are perpendicular to the ground, so the tread lays flat.

Adjusting camber can be important for particular styles of driving or racing. Street automobiles usually run at zero camber for two reasons. First, it reduces tread wear and helps ensure even wear. Secondly, under normal driving conditions, most of the time you're driving in a straight line, so in those conditions zero camber gives you the best traction for straight line performance. Drag racers run at zero camber for the same reason.

But in this, case we're upgrading the suspension on the Scion TC for autocross racing where the driver will be taking corners a lot harder than in normal driving, so we want to maximize performance under those more rigorous conditions. Therefore we're going to run at negative camber. At the track, when we come to a hard turn, most of the pressure goes to the outside tire which now lays flat on the track giving us the biggest contact patch to the ground. Therefore we can take corners a lot harder without losing traction.

Camber is measured in degrees, and precise measurements are possible using a camber gauge.

	Spraying the bolts with lubricant.
	Adjusting rear camber
	Checking rear camber
	Be sure, when jacking and lowering the car, to use a jack rated for the weight of your vehicle.
	Checking the front camber
	Securing the front camber bolt
	Torque-tighten the front camber bolt to the proper torque specs.
	Front camber bolt, installed
	Installing the camber bolt

Installing the Adjustable Camber Kit

It's important to get a baseline measurement before beginning the installation of the camber kit. This measurement is easy to get using the custom gauge. Just attach it to the wheel, and you'll get the proper measurement. Because he gets a negative measurement, Andrew decides to install the new front strut bolts.

• To begin the installation, first get the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheel.

• Loosen the lower spindle bolt with an impact wrench to give some adjustment room.

• Completely remove the straight upper spindle bolt, and replace it with the offset camber adjustment bolt.

• With the indicator down, the setting should match the original reading to the car where the measurement began.

• Tighten up both of the spindle bolts. Torque them down to hold the settings.

• Repeat the process on the other side.

• Now the car should be tunable for either the street or the track. Get the wheels back to zero camber to compensate for the lowered springs.

• With the wheel off, loosen the new upper spindle bolt.

• Turn the indicator to add positive camber to offset the negative camber that the upgraded suspension added.

• Tighten it back down.

• Replace the wheel, and drop the car to the ground.

• Repeat the process on the other side of the car.

• Once the front is at zero camber on both sides, it's time to work on the back.

• First, measure the baseline camber at the back wheels, and then jack the car up to remove the old camber arms.

• The camber arms connect the bottom of the rear suspension to the sub-frame of the car. Take out the inside bolt first.

• The outside end of the camber arm is connected to the spindle. Remove the spindle.

• Remove the bolts, and pull out the arm.

• The new adjustable arms are easily attached using the factory bolts.

• The outer bolt is easier to reach from the outside. Pop the arm into the spindle.

• Line it up and tighten it down using an air ratchet.

• Back under the car, reinstall the cam bolt and washer. Attempt to get it as close as possible to the original setting. Put the nut back on.

• Repeat the process on the other side.

• Once the new arms are in place, replace the muffler and tailpipe. Tighten the assembly at the midpipe.

• Install the wheels, and drop the car to the ground to make sure the baseline camber reading is still reading as you'd like.

• To adjust the setting back to zero, jack the car up once more and hang the gauge back on the wheel. To get a baseline, adjust the level so it reads –1.5, as if the car was on the ground.

• Reach in around the wheel and loosen the pinch bolt and back off the lock nut. Begin to rotate the adjustment sleeve.

• Check the gauge as the top of the wheel moves out. Once the setting reads zero degrees, tighten up everything and double-check the gauge.

• Repeat the adjustment steps on the other side.

• When the adjustments are complete, you can lower the car back to the ground.

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