Axle Disassembly and Inspection With the bolts securing the CV joints loosened beneath the vehicle, work begins on the outer wheel-side of the axle. Important: Included below are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular car or truck, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of repair kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts. Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools. - The manner in which the drive-axle attaches at the wheel end may vary from one vehicle to another. Consult your service manual for the proper procedures. In our case, the first step is to remove the hub-cover (figure A). The hub cover is generally attached fairly tightly. It can be loosened using a screwdriver, and it may help to tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to break it loose.
- Once you've removed the hub cover, mark a reference line on the hub so that, when you replace it, you can re-align it properly.
- The next step is to loosen the bolts that hold the hub in place (figure B). It may help to have an assistant step on the brakes to hold the axle steady as you loosen the bolts.
- Removing hub may require a two-arm gear puller, a specialized tool available at most auto stores. In our case, the hub could be removed from the cone-shaped spacer beneath it by using two puller-bolts. As the bolts are tightened into the existing puller-bolt holes, the hub pops loose.
- The hub is held in place by a nut (figure C), flat-washer and cone-shaped spacer.
- Next, remove the center-bolt from the axle (figure D).
- With the center-bolt removed, the hub can be lifted off to reveal a snap-ring and spacer (figure E). It's best to use specialized snap-ring pliers to remove this ring. Place the jaws of the pliers into the jaws of the snap ring, and squeeze to open and remove the snap ring. The spacer can then be removed by hand.
- With the wheel-end of the axle loose, you'll need to get back under the vehicle to detach the inner joint. The nuts that hold the inner joint were loosened earlier, so they should now come off easily (figure F).
- With all of the nuts removed, a floor jack is used to jack up the axle (figure G), making it easier to remove.
Safety Alert: When jacking the axle, the entire vehicle may rise slightly. This can be dangerous. Use extreme caution, and follow manufacturer's safety precautions, when jacking the axle. Avoid jacking the axle too high, and make certain that your vehicle jack and jack-stands are secure.
- Depending on the make of your vehicle, it may be fairly challenging to remove the axle completely from the differential. You may have a few obstacles to overcome. Consult your vehicle's service manual for proper procedures. In our case, it was necessary to remove either the bottom of the shock absorber or the stabilizer-bar link (figure H). We opted remove the stabilizer-bar link. We were cautious to avoid damaging the stabilizer-bar link and related parts, as these will be put back in later.
- With the necessary parts out of the way, the damaged axle could be removed from the vehicle (figure I). Since it has been severely damaged, this axle will be replaced with a new one. The axle on the other side of the vehicle was not damaged, so it did not need to be replaced. It did need to be removed, however, to service it with a new CV boot.
- Once removed from the vehicle, the good axle could be inspected closely (figure J).
- Before removing it, a reference mark was placed on the rear axle end (figure K) as well as the corresponding differential flange so that the parts can be properly aligned later.
- The other end of the axle is comprised of a tulip joint, which allows the outer axle to flex with a wide range of motion (figure L).
- The rear of the axle (figure M) is a plunge joint which serves to move in and out to essentially change the length of the axle as the suspension geometry changes during driving.
In the segment that follows, the new boot kit is installed.
RESOURCES :
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
Author: Dan Ramsey
ISBN: 0028635833
Alpha Books
Auto Repair for Dummies
Author: Deanna Sclar
ISBN: 0764550896
|
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
