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Scion XB Stereo Upgrade: Speaker Pods and Mounting Bar XBoom Box, Part 2 of 2 From "Tricked Out" episode DTRK-313

(Continued from page 1)

Weld Mounting Plates to Bar

Now that the pieces for the mounting bar have been cut out it's time to make a couple of welds to secure the mounting plates to the end of the bar. The best way for a do-it-yourselfer to achieve strong, clean welds is with a 110-volt MIG welder. It's the most forgiving method for beginners, and you'll be able to work with more and thinner materials than with a flux core or stick welder.

Important: Safety is priority, so be sure to keep your work area clean and dry. Check for and remove combustible items like chemicals, paints and solvents. You'll also need proper ventilation, so open windows and use an exhaust fan. Finally, use proper safety gear. Everything on your body should be covered. Wool clothing is preferred along with thick rubber-soled shoes, dry leather gloves and a welding helmet.

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Andrew uses a MIG welder to fasten the mounting plates to the cross bar.

Steps:

• To begin welding, set the amperage and wire speed on the welder to the recommended settings for 16-gauge milled steel.

• Turn on the gas and the welder and then hook the groundling clamp onto the pipe as close as you can to the work area.

• Set the first mounting plate in place and check the registration marks, and then tack weld the mounting plate to the pipe in a couple of places. Carefully flip the pipe around and do the same on the other side.

• Once both sides are tacked on, take the pipe to the car to check the fit.

• If everything looks correct, set the pipe back up and continue welding.

• You'll want to hold the torch at about a 35-degree angle to the work area and use a dragging technique so you can see the weld as you go. After you get all the way around the first joint, flip the pipe over and do the other side.

• Work in small circles to create a pool, and adjust the wire feed speed as necessary until you get a nice sizzling sound.

• Once the welding is complete, use an angle grinder to even out the welds.

• The next thing to do is add a few holes for the speaker wires.

• Have a friend help you temporarily attach the speaker pods to the new bar with the mounting clamps. Snug the clamps up so they grab the bar but leave them loose enough that you can still adjust the position.

• Then take them to the car and adjust the pods where you want them.

• On the back of the bar, mark the speaker wire holes and also make marks on the hatch frame for the mounting screws and the speaker wire pass-through behind the passenger's side mounting plate.

• Then drill out all of the holes with a three-sixteenths-inch bit.

• Back at the workbench, put the pipe in a vice, drill out the speaker wire holes, and open up the wire pass-through on the passenger's side mounting plate to at least half-an-inch.

• The pipe now needs to be finished. You could have it chromed or powder-coated or you could paint it.

• If you choose to paint the pipe, sand it down really well to create a receptive surface for the primer.

• Wipe down the piece thoroughly with mineral spirits to remove any oil, grease or dirt.

• Hang the pipe so you can paint all sides.

• Fog the surface with a high-quality primer, and let that dry for about an hour.

• Once the primer is dry, go back with at least two coats of primer, two coats of base color, and two coats of clear sealer.

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