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Stereo Upgrade: Subwoofer, Amp and Custom Amp-Cover It may look like a mini-mite but, with a new subwoofer, this Mini Cooper gets a mighty thump. From "Tricked Out" episode DTRK-212

(Continued from page 1)

Installing the Radio and Line-Level Adapter

To take full advantage of the new stereo sound, Andrew installs a line level adapter (figure A) which will take the high-level output from the factory radio and convert it to a low-level output to feed to the amp. The new system interfaces with the factory connections by means of pigtail adapters (figure B). These adapters are model-specific and have matched color-coding to simplify the process of wiring.

Safety Alert: As a standard safety precaution, always disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before you begin work on any electrical or mechanical components.

Figure A

Figure B

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	Figure C
	Figure D

• The wires on the pigtails are labeled, so begin by locating the rear speaker leads on the radio harness and connect those.

• The right rear negative lead gets twisted together with the right negative lead running to the line level converter. Those two wires are crimped into a splice connecter and then the right rear negative lead on the other pigtail is crimped to the other side of the splice (figure C).

• Do the same with the right rear positive lead, and then repeat the process with both the left rear positive and negative speaker leads as well.

• The remote turn-on lead gets an extension with a spade connecter added to the other end. That end will be connected to the amp leads once we start work on the car.

• The ground leads are next. Twist them together and add a spade connecter so that they can be attached to the ground wire for the line level converter.

• Splice together the rest of the matched pairs.

• Organize all of the wires with electrical tape or wire ties (figure D).
  

  	Figure E
  	Figure F

• Bring the adapter back to the car and use it to bridge the connection between the car harness and the radio.

• Remove the small panel from the Mini console to access all the wiring from underneath.

• Next, plug the adapter into the car's harness (figure E) and the other side into the radio.

• Tuck the excess wires into the opening, and pull them down from below.

• Then plug in the antenna, insert the radio into the console, and secure it with the original screws (figure F).
  

  Figure G

• Once the radio is installed the console can be reassembled in reverse order. The side pillars go on first, and then the center piece back into place. The mirror adjustment screws and clips go in next. And then the shift ring fits on (figure G). And all the remaining screws are replaced. Leave the bottom panel out to access the line level converter.
  

• That takes care of the connections for the factory radio. Now it's time to run connections from the back of the car where the amp and sub are going to be installed.

• First, hook up the line lead from the RCA cables to the line level converter (figure H). Then hookup the extension for the remote turn-on lead that runs with the RCA's.

• Start tucking the wires under the carpet at the passenger foot well.

• Pull out the lower portion of the door gasket to expose the edge of the trim panel. Then work a panel tool underneath the trim panel and foot well and start prying it loose (figure I) until you hear a pop.

  Figure H

  Figure I

  
  

• Push the seat forward to reveal the bolt that holds the lower seatbelt attachment bar and remove the bolt.

• Next, pop loose one of the clips holding the rear trim panel that overlaps the door trim (figure J). Then pop out the rear retaining clip from the door sill trim piece and remove it from the car.

• Once the trim is off run the wires all the way to the backseat underneath the loose carpet.

• At the very front, tuck the line level converter into the dash (figure K), screw the front panel back in, and then head to the backseat.

  Figure J

  Figure K

  
  

  	Figure L

• Reach under the rear seat and lift up. It should come right out.

• Once it's removed, fold the carpet back and tuck the ends of the wire though the seat back (figure L). Then locate the wires in the truck.

• At the of the truck cut a three-inch access hole in the rear carpet behind the seat. Lift the carpet to tuck the wire through and pull out the slack.

• Once the amplifier leads are in place you can start with the backseat and replace all of the trim panels moving forward with the dash.

• After the trim panels are replaced, the seatbelt bolt goes back in and gets torque-tightened to 28 foot pounds.
  
  
  

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  RELATED PROJECTS: Acrylic Subwoofer Enclosure: Completion Acrylic Subwoofer Enclosure: Glue-Up and Amp-Wiring Acrylic Subwoofer Enclosure: Box Panels Acrylic Subwoofer Enclosure: Prep Work WEB-EXTRA: Online Volume Calculator for Speaker Enclosures

  
  

  ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:
  	Stereo Upgrade: Subwoofer, Amp and Custom Amp-Cover