| Golf-Cart Conversion Kit: Maintenance and Wiring |
From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-312 |
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 The distinctive tailfins and rear chrome of the classic 1957 Chevy Bel Air.
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 The converted golf cart.
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In this episode of DIY's Weekend Mechanic, host Bruce Bonebrake converts an ordinary old golf-cart into a miniature replica of a 1957 Chevy Bel Air. In this segment, some general mechanical maintenance is done before installing the fiberglass body parts, and the wiring is done for the new light system.Materials: In addition to standard auto-mechanic's tools (wrenches, ratchets, extenders, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, torque wrench, etc.), some of the specialty tools and materials that needed for this project include fiberglass body panels, custom-covered seats, chrome wheels, new tires, lighting components, body decals, hole-saw, 3/4" driver drill, battery tester, grease gun wire strippers and metal shears. An air-compressor and set of pneumatic tools will is optional, but may be very helpful for this project. Assisting us with this project is Dennis Ruger of Phat Cat© Carts Inc. DIY Difficulty Rating for the Project: This job is fun and fairly straightforward, but it does require some careful body work as well as electrical re-wiring and work with batteries. It could be difficult for a new or untrained mechanic. We gave it a difficulty rating of 3 on a 5-point intermediate-level scale.
General MaintenanceWith the golf-cart stripped down to the chassis, cleaned and dried off, work can now begin on some general maintenance and wiring. - Begin the maintenance by greasing the fittings on the front steering linkages using a grease gun (figure A).
- Check for any loose nuts or bolts on the frame, and tighten as necessary.
Using a battery tester (i.e., a hydrometer), check all the cells of the batteries to make sure they are all good. To do this, a rubber bulb is used to draw fluid from the battery up into a test chamber (figure B). An indicator inside the hydrometer shows whether the cell has sufficient charge or not. The charge on all of our cells checked out OK (figure C).
Safety Alert: Always wear safety glasses when working around an open battery.Complete the battery test by making sure that all of the battery caps are screwed back down tight (figure D).
Wiring the LightsNow you can begin work on the electrical system by installing a fused circuit for installing headlights and taillights. We opted to mount a fuse panel on a portion of the frame just behind the seats. For the type of lighting circuit we installed, we used a 20-amp fuse. A headlight switch was then mounted on the dash, on the new wood-grain panel. The best time to do this wiring is before installing the new body parts. (The cost for the wiring components for this installation was around $150.) Wiring setups may vary, so read and follow the wiring instructions, diagrams and safety precautions that come with your kit. Here is a summary of the steps for our kit, as shown in this episode: Important: Use at least 16-gauge wire to connect any golf-cart lights. - Begin the wiring installation by pre-drilling for installation of the fuse holder (figure E).
- Crimp connectors onto the orange wire that will connect the positive side of the battery terminal to one side of the fuse. The other side of the fuse is wired to the positive side of the light switch, and both wires are attached at the fuse holder (figure F).
Connect the ground wire to a bolt on the frame (figure G).Next, route the white wire from the light switch to the back of the cart to power the rear running-lights (figure H).
Secure the white wire and the orange wire from the fuse-holder inside a wire loom, and route the loom under the cart and up to the dash (figure I). Cut the wires and loom to length.Crimp the white wire from the taillights to the white wire that will go to the headlights, and connect it to one side of the light switch, then connect positive orange wire from the fuse-holder to the other side of the switch (figure J).Important: Make certain that all positive connections have good and reliable weather shields.
Secure a ground connection for the headlights and taillights (figure K).The other wire from the taillight should be lengthened and then connected to one of the wires on the other taillight (figure L).Finally, the other wire from the second taillight should be connected to the white wire from the front light switch.The only wiring left to connect at this point is the headlights.
Important: Included in this segment are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of repair-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection and ear protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools. Also wear eye protection any time that you are working beneath a vehicle. Safety Alert: As a standard safety precaution, always disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before you begin work on any electrical or mechanical components.
RESOURCES :
Phat Cat® Carts Inc.
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