If you ride an older motorcycle, it's important to keep your bike in tip-top condition. In this episode, Weekend Mechanic host Bruce Bonebrake performs some maintenance and makeover work on a 25-year-old motorcycle. The work includes fluid and filter changes, brake service and replacement of worn items including tires, seat-cover, exhaust pipes and cam-cover gasket. In this first segment, an initial inspection is done to identify specific problems. Then work gets underway as the rear wheel is taken off and the worn-out seat cover is removed.The problem: Our project, a 1978 Yamaha motorcycle, has about 11,000 miles on it and is pretty good condition for a motorcycle of this age. However, it has an engine-oil leak and is in need of some routine and preventive maintenance as well as a new seat-cover and set of exhaust pipes.
DIY Difficulty Rating for Repair: The repairs and service included are fairly straightforward, and can be found in the motorcycle's service manual. We gave it a difficulty rating of 2 on a 5-point intermediate-level scale. It took us about 8 hours, spread over two days, to complete the job.
Important: Included below are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of repair-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.
Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools.
Materials:
In addition to standard auto-mechanic's shop tools, some of the specialty tools that will be needed for this project include a motorcycle work bench, hydraulic brake-bleeder pump, torque wrench, milliliter measuring cup, and a motorcycle jack.
An air-compressor and set of pneumatic tools is optional, but may help speed the repair and maintenance process.
Initial AssessmentUpon inspecting the motorcycle, one of the more obvious repair needs included replacement of the worn tires (figure A). For road safety, we decided to remove both the front and rear wheels and have both tires replaced. With the wheels removed, it's a good opportunity to inspect the condition of the front brakes (figure B).
The engine has an oil leak coming from the area of the cam-cover (figure C). A worn-out cam-cover gasket is likely the cause, so it will be replaced with a new one. The rusted exhaust pipes will be replaced with new onesThe foam on the seat is in good shape, but the leather cover is ripped (figure D). We opted to send the seat out to be professionally reupholstered.
The spark plugs and air filter will be changed. Fluid changes include both engine oil and center gear-case oil.
Safety Alert: If you remove either wheel from your motorcycle, first have an assistant help you safely secure it with a jack-stand or lift. When you remove the wheel, the weight may shift.
The seat cover is held to the seat by a series of metal tabs that are bent over. Use a small slotted screwdriver to lift the tabs (figure G) to free the cover.Once the tabs are bent up, loosen the seat-cover and ease it up over the seat frame (figure H).Safety Alert: Make certain that the foam is in good condition before having it re-covered. The safety of your ride depends on a good seat. If the foam is worn, consider replacing the entire seat.
The next step is to take the back tire and wheel off. The back fender on this motorcycle is hinged so that the tire can be lifted out. With the motorcycle secured on a jack and jack-stands, remove the cotter-pin that prevents the axle nut from turning (figure K). As soon as the pin is out, the axle nut can be removed.Note: You'll need to replace the cotter pin with a new one later. Never re-use an old cotter pin.
On the other end of the axle, loosen and remove the pinch-bolt (figure L) that keeps the axle from rotating and sliding out. Once the pinch-bolt is removed, gently tap out the axle using a rubber hammer. Lubricating the axle may make it easier to remove.