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Honda Civic SI: Track-Accessory Trailer Andrew Totolos fashions a custom trailer for taking the tools in tow when headed to the drag strip. From "Tricked Out" episode DTRK-412

(Continued from page 2)

The nitrogen tank, installed

Part 2: Mount Nitrogen Tank

At the track, it's important that the car's tires have the proper pressure, and if you want real flexibility it's best to have your own air tank.

Andrew decides to mount a nitrogen tank on the project trailer because it's a better all-around source for filling tires at the track.

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Andrew drills the holes for the tank mount.

Materials and tools used in this phase of the project:

standard shop tools
nitrogen tank
mounting brackets for tank
two-by-four
measuring tape
marker
square-tube and channel steel stock
welder with safety gear
drill with bits
clamp
pressure regulator

	Securing the bolts

Steps:

• To help determine the best way to mount the nitrogen tank, place the bottle, along with a set of mounting brackets, on a two-by-four.

• Measure the dimensions of the trailer, including where the tongue lands in the center.

• Now you'll build a low-profile steel cross-member to replace the two-by-four.

• Cut a few sections of two-inch channel steel at 45-degree angles, and arrange them into a square shape to wrap around the tongue.

• Put on the welding safety gear, and tack-weld the pieces together at each joint.

• Flip over the cross-member, and do it again on the other side.

• Once the piece is straight, run a strong bead across the metal at all of the joints, making sure to hit the inside joints.

• With the cross-member fabricated, replace the tank and mark where the brackets will attach.

• Drill eight holes for the brackets, and put the bolts through to check the fit.

• At this stage the bracket could be bolted in but, to make it extra safe, it's best to weld the nuts on the other side. This makes the brackets more secure and makes it less likely that the tank could fall off of the trailer.

• Put the bolts through the drilled holes and spin on both sets of four nuts.
  

  	Trailer-mount holes, marked
  	Andrew uses a punch to start the holes for drilling.

• After the nuts have been tack-welded in place, the bolts will be able to be removed, but the nuts will stay in place.

• At the trailer, lift the cross-member into position, and clamp it down to hold it in place as you drop the bolts in and tighten them up.

• Next, bolt on the tank brackets. Use strong bolts for these brackets, grade 5 or better.

• Once the tank brackets are on, put the tank in place for a final position check.

• To finish up, screw on a regulator with a quick-connect air fitting on the end. The tank is ready to use.

Safety Alert: For safety's sake, before attaching an air hose to the tank, be certain to put a pressure regulator on the tank. Without a regulator the tank could explode due to the pressure inside the tank becoming so great.

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