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S2000 Racing Upgrades: Installing Roll Bars Autocross Racing Enhancements, Part 1 of 3 From "Tricked Out" episode DTRK-309

(Continued from page 2)

	Figure D
	Figure E

Installing Harness Bar

• Continuing with the harness bar installation, the next step is to set it into the car for the trial fit.

• If your car is dropped low, or if you're running a thick body kit, you're going to need to lift your car using jack stands and chocks.

• With the help of a friend, carefully set the harness bar into position (figure D). In most cars it will only fit into one place, but double-check the alignment by measuring the distance between the edge of the bracket and the rear seat bolt-hole.

• Use a felt pen to mark the mounting holes for drilling, and then carefully lift the bar out of the way for drilling.

• A sharp punch will divot the marks right through the carpet, and then you can use a utility knife to remove the carpet at the holes.

  Drill a small pilot hole at each location (figure E), then step up to the size indicated by your bar's manufacturer.
  

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  	Figure F
  	Figure G

• After the holes are drilled, replace the bar, making sure the bracket is lined up with the mounting holes, and drop a bolt with a flat washer through each one (figure F), hand-tightening them as you go.

• No matter what kind of bar you have, you'll need to install backing plates underneath to the floor pan. Under the car, position the backing plate over the bolts and slide a flat washer, a lock washer, and a nut onto each bolt.

• After both of the main plates are hand-tight, torque all of the bolts down to 30-foot pounds (figure G).

  Tip: If you don't have a helper to hold a wrench from above, you can use a pair of vice grips to hold the bolts steady while you tighten things up underneath.
  

  	Figure H
  	Figure I

• Once the backing plates are removed it's time to pull out the panels up top. Reach into the rear deck area and remove the trim panel retaining clips with a panel tool.

• When all of the clips are removed, pull out the trim piece.

• In the S2000, the rear deck needs to be removed also by popping straight up and out (figure H).

• After all the trim panels are out you can start working on your support bars.

• Slide the bar into the slot on the upper portion of the hoop (figure I).

• Push a hex bolt through the mount to temporarily hold the support in place. Repeat the process for the other side.
  

  Figure J

• At the bottom of the supports, adjust the mounting plates so that they lay flat against the floor (figure J).

• Mark all of the mounting holes using a felt pen, and remove the support bars to make some room.

• Punch and drill out the mounting holes using the same procedure that was used for the main bar. Start by drilling a small pilot hole in each location. Then open up the holes so they're big enough to accept the included roll bar hardware.

  Tip: You can use a piece of rolled-up masking tape to pick up any metal shavings. Careful! The shavings can be sharp.

• Repeat the process on the other side.
  

  	Figure K
  	Figure L
  	Figure M

• After the holes are drilled, replace the bar and push a bolt with a flat washer through the upper mounting plate. Push the bolts in from the top so gravity will hold them in place temporarily in a renegade nut happens to back itself off.

• Drop the bolts with flat washers though the bottom mounting plates (figure K).

• Reach around the back wheel to install the backing plates (figures L and M). They also take four washers and nuts. Be sure to use the hardware that's included with your bar.

• Tighten everything down to the bar manufacturer's specifications, and go back and tighten down the top mounts as well.

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RESOURCES :

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