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Gauges Upgrade and EL Highlighting We install an A-pillar gauge pod and discover a new use for cup-holders. From "Tricked Out" episode DTRK-213

(Continued from page 1)

A-Pillar Gauge Pod and Wiring

• If you choose to customize paint the A-pillar gauge pod in your car simply scuff up the surface of the pod with some 400-grit sandpaper and hang the piece up so you can reach all around the pod. You'll want to apply a couple of coats of paint (figure A), leaving enough time to dry in between each coat. Also, don't forget to paint the push pins that secure the gauge pod to the trim panel.

• Once everything has been painted and has had time to dry it's time to assemble the gauge pod.

• Set the gauge pod down onto the A-pillar trim piece. Then hold the pieces firmly against the table and drill out mounting holes at each end of the pod for the plastic mounting pins to hold the pieces together (figure B).

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  

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• Underneath each gauge mounting point, drill a large hole to allow the wires to pass through (figure C), being careful not to drill through the pod.

• Once you're holes are drilled you can start mounting your gauges into the pod.

• Feed the wires from the first gauge through the opening in the gauge pod and push the gauge into place. Then add the second gauge and check to see that both gauges are lined up correctly (figure D).

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

• Once all the gauges are installed into the trim piece it's time to get to the wiring. To stay true to proper electrical specs, and ensure that the gauge readings are just as accurate as the factory standards, all connections are going to be soldered and protected with heat-shrink tubing, not just crimped and taped. The first step is to put a ten-foot extension on the gray wire to reach the oxygen sensor underneath the car.

• Before you begin, test the heat of your soldering iron by melting some solder onto the end (figure E). This is called "tinning the tip" and should be done to improve heat transfer anytime you solder.

• With a length of heat-shrink tubing on one side of the connection take the two connecting wires and wrap them together.

• Touch of the tip of the solder and the iron against the wires and the solder will flow freely into the connection (figure F).

• Let the joint cool for a few seconds and then bend it flat against the wire and slide the heat-shrink tubing over the connection.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

• Finish up the splice by heating the entire sleeve with a heat gun set on low until the tubing tightens up around the connection (figure G).

• Once you're comfortable with soldering, you'll have your work cut out for you with this project. Most gauges have 3 or 4 wires to hook up. The first three are typically a 12-volt positive lead, a ground, and an illumination lead. The last wire (or sometimes two wires) supply the signal information from the engine to the gauge.

  To save time, when you have two gauges that are close together (like the ones in the cup holder) check the specs to see if the lead wires can be combined (figure H). We also soldered in the positive and ground leads for the EL wire transformer so that it comes on with the illumination circuit in the car--i.e., only when the lights are on.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

  	Figure I
  	Figure J

• At least one set of positive leads from each set of gauges needs to be extended to reach the fuse panel. The sending unit leads--the wires that go to the engine-- need to be extended by about ten feet.

• Take your time and work your way through the set. If you can't match the gauge manufacturer's wiring color, make a note on the wiring guide or mark the extension so that you don't get confused when it's time to hook up the sending units (figure I).

• Pull the extensions in one at a time and then push them off to the side once they're connected so that you can keep the soldering iron in one place. Trim the excess length off the wiring rolls as you go.

• After all the connections are made, slide the heat-shrink tubing over each joint and heat them one at a time.

• Finally, gather the wires and wire-tie them together along the trim piece with an additional two feet of gathered length (figure J), and it's ready to install.
  

• Back at the car, guide the A-pillar gauge wires down the side of the dash and into the driver's foot well. Then pop the A-pillar trim and gauge assembly into place (figure K).

• Run the cup holder gauge wires into the opening where the cup holder was (figure L) and tuck them up under the center console trim. Fish them through to the driver's side so they can be run through a grommet in the firewall later.

• Once the wires are run around to the front, reinstall the cup holder.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  
  
  

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  ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:
  	Gauges Upgrade and EL Highlighting