DIY Network

Drum-to-Disc Brakes Conversion, Part 1 Salvage-Parts Restoration From "Tricked Out" episode DTRK-210

The project car: 1997 Honda Civic hatchback with engine-performance enhancements and lots of carbon fiber goodies. Next up is the brake system.

NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.

In this project, Tricked Out host Andrew Totolos upgrades the brakes on a 1997 Honda Civic with a restored disc-brake system salvaged from an Acura Integra--along with some additional new Acura parts. In part 1 of the project, Andrew introduces the project car and begins the conversion by cleaning and restoring the salvaged Acura rear-brake assembly.

Materials used in this episode:

In addition to standard auto-mechanic's tools (wrenches, ratchets, extenders, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, torque wrench, etc.), tools and materials used in this episode include:

Salvaged Acura disc-brake assemblies
Slotted rotors
Replacement brake pads
Brake master-cylinder
Brake power-booster
Brakes distribution block
Degreaser
Brake cleaner
Braided steel flex-lines
Sandpaper
Wire brush
Masking tape
Wire hanger
Caliper paint
Drop cloth
Brake fluid
Small bucket
Clear hose
Clear bottle
Line wrenches
Pneumatic tools
Floor jack
Jack stands; wheel chocks

DIY Difficulty Rating for This Project: We gave this a difficulty rating of 4 on a 5-point intermediate-level scale. The conversion includes removing the rear suspension and swapping the brake components under the hood. But the parts swap out easily, so experienced gear-heads should have no problem.

Important: Included in this summary are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of upgrade-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs or upgrades, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and safety precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection and ear protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools or pneumatic tools. Also wear eye protection any time you are working underneath a vehicle.

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The Project Car: 1997 Honda Civic Hatchback

The owner of this Civic has already upgraded the exterior with dual angel-eye headlamps and chrome-and-clear tails, a carbon-fiber hood with gunmetal-vinyl signal graphics. The 17" polished-lip wheels are brought to a stop by slotted rotors and painted calipers.

Under the hood, the factory 1.6-liter overhead-cam engine produces 106 horsepower with 103 foot-pounds of torque. But the owner has upped the ante with a short-ram intake system, cam and pulley kit, red 9mm plug-wires, a performance engine control-module and full 2-1/2" down-pipe and exhaust.

On the inside there's a new tachometer and lots of carbon-fiber in the form of a headliner, dash overlays, custom parking-brake handle and shift knob.

Figure A

Tricked Out Tip: If you're thinking about performance mods for your car, it's a good idea to find out which performance models are in your car's "family." Compatible vehicles, like our Civic and the Acura Integra, can be great sources for parts swaps.

For this swap, we went to a salvage-yard to acquire the rear lower control-arms with the disc-brake assemblies and parking-brake cables from a 1997 Acura Integra. Civics and Integras have a lot in common and share a fair amount of interchangeable parts, so this is a fairly straightforward change-out. This particular brake-assembly (figure A) can be found in Integras from model years 1994 through 2000 and is compatible with Honda Civics from years 1996 through 2000.

To get the project started, the old parts are cleaned with degreaser and brake cleaner. The rebuild is then outfitted with painted calipers, new braided stainless flex-lines, slotted rotors and new brake pads.

• Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the caliper dust cover

• Pop off the retaining clip and pull out the cotter-pin that secures the parking-brake cable to the caliper (figure B).

• Once the cable is released, you can pull it away from the assembly.

• Next, remove the bracket holding the brake line to the trailing arm, and remove the banjo-bolt from the caliper to release the line (figure C).

  Figure B

  Figure C

  
  

• Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, and pull the caliper free from the assembly.

• Pull the anti-squeal spring out of the caliper and set it aside. The old pads come right off and can be dicarded in favor of a new set.

• Remove the two caliper-bracket mounting-bolts and the caliper bracket (figure D).

• Then remove the two screws holding the old rotor in place. Lift off the old rotor (figure E) and discard it, as well.

  Figure D

  Figure E

  
  

• Essentially, you're going to end up with four main components for each side: the trailing arm with the hub, the caliper, the dust cover and the caliper bracket. Take them all outside and clean them thoroughly with biodegradable degreaser and a hose (figure F). Really dirty parts may need to be cleaned with a brake cleaner and a wire brush as well.

• If you're painting the calipers, lightly sand the surface of the caliper and the bracket so that the paint will adhere properly. Then clean the parts with brake cleaner to remove any dust, and mask off the brake piston and any other areas that shouldn't get painted.

• Suspend the parts with a wire hanger and then apply a minimum of two cats of high-heat caliper paint.

• Let the parts dry in between coats and allow the paint to harden overnight before assembly (figure G).

  Figure F

  Figure G

  
  

• Once everything is prepped, you'll end up with clean refurbished parts that are ready to assemble and install into your car.

• Clean the hub with brake cleaner and a cloth and let it dry.

• Once the hub has dried, slide the new slotted rotor in place (figure H).

• Replace the two screws that hold the rotor into place, and then bolt on the caliper bracket, using the bolts that are in the best condition, and torque them down to 28 foot-pounds (figure I).

  Figure H

  Figure I

  
  

• Clean the brake-pad retainers and set them in place.

• Apply some of the lubricating paste that is supplied with the new pads onto the back, and then install both pads onto the caliper bracket (figure J).

• Lubricate the piston boot with silicon to avoid twisting, then use a large screwdriver to rotate the caliper piston clockwise to back it into the cylinder and make room for the thickness of the new pads (figure K).

  Figure J

  Figure K

  
  

• Insert the anti-squeal spring into the caliper, and then carefully slide the caliper onto the mounting bracket, and reinstall the caliper mounting bolts, tightening them down to about 28 foot pounds.

• Replace the emergency brake cable, attach the retaining clip (figure L), and use a cotter pin to secure the end.

• Bolt the dust cover into place (figure M).

• Finally, attach the new braided steel flex line to the caliper using the existing banjo bolt with a washer on each side.

• Repeat this process for the new parts on the other side of the car. Once the parts are ready to install you can begin removing the old parts from the car.

  Figure L

  Figure M

  
  

• The first step is to release the parking brake cables from inside the car. Remove the two screws along the side of the console, and then lift the console up over the brake handle (figure N)and set it aside.

• Next, remove the two bolts holding the metal bracket that secures the brake cables (figure O) and release the brake cables from the equalizer.

  Figure N

  Figure O

  
  

RESOURCES :

Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guide: Import Cars (Sport Compact Bolt-On Performance Guides)
Author: Joe Pettitt
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Voyageur Press (October 2000)
ISBN: 1884089526

Honda & Acura Performance Handbook (Performance Handbooks)
Author: Mike Ancas
Order this title from Amazon.com.
June, 1999
Publisher: Motorbooks International
ISBN: 0760306699

Honda/Acura Engine Performance: How to Modify D, B and H Series Honda/Acura Engines for Street and Drag Racing Performance
Author: Mike Kojima
Order this title from Amazon.com.
April 2002
Publisher: HP Books
ISBN: 155788384X

Honda/Acura Performance Handbook: High Performance Modifications for Street and Drag Racing Applications
by the editors of Sport Compact Car Magazine
Order this title from Amazon.com.
November 1999
Publisher: HP Books
ISBN: 1557883246