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1965 Mustang Restoration: Rear Disc Brake Conversion Steve Magnante adds performance rear brakes to the '65 Mustang. From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-504

(Continued from page 1)

Figure A

Steps:

• To remove the old drum brakes, first remove the tires (figure A).

• Use a brake tool to disconnect the shoe retaining springs and remove the shoes.

• The axle shaft retainer bolts can come out next, and the axle shaft is removed.

• Use a tubing wrench to disconnect the brake line. Apply penetrating oil if the nut is corroded.
  

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• The old drum brake can now be removed (figure B and C).

  Figure B

  Figure C

  
  

  The old rotor, removed

  
  

• To convert the axle's wheel studs from short stock versions to longer ones to accept the different thickness of this hat, first apply penetrating oil to help loosen the bolts. Next install a lug nut onto each stud to protect the threads from damage. This also provides a flat surface to hammer on.
  

  	Figure D
  	Figure E
  	Figure F
  	The brake assembly is held securely in a vise during the conversion of the wheel studs.

  
  

• Tip: It's a good idea to apply anti-seize compound to the head and the tip of the studs to prevent galling (figure D).

• To draw the wheel studs up through the axle flange, install a washer onto the stud and then a lug nut with the flat part against the washer. As the lug nut is tightened down, it pulls the stud up through the axle mounting.

• Now that the axle has been fitted with the longer wheel studs, take the brake rotor off and the next step is to re-install the axle shaft (figure E) and the axle housing, but only 7/8 of the way. It's still necessary to dress the end of the axle housing with the disc brake adaptor parts.

• Put the axle housing flange bolts in place after placing the axle housing 7/8 of the way onto the car.

• The two-piece caliper mounting plates will go around the axle bearing and are held in place with the Ford bearing retainer flange (figure F).

• One by one, put the nuts on, torque-tightening them down by air first, then make the final snug with a torque wrench.

• Restoration Realities Pro Tip: Always tighten the bolts in a crisscross or star pattern to prevent binding.

• Our torque wrench was set to 40 pounds, but this may vary depending on your vehicle. Use a torque wrench set on the correct weight to tighten down the bolts further.

• Next is the caliper bracket that goes behind the bolts. There are 4 spacers that you have to use in the proper order.

• Install the bracket bolts and spacers as well as the nuts and tighten them to snug as you did with the flange and the adaptor.

• With the torque wrench set to the correct spec, tighten the bracket bolts down.

• The emergency brake adaptor slips over the line and snaps into place.

• Then it bolts into place on one of the four brake caliper mounting flange bolts and the adaptor is set to the correct spec.
  

  The installed rear-brake rotor

  
  

• The rotor goes on and is held in place with a lug nut for now.

• One convenient item about the stainless steel brake calipers is they have dual inlets for the brake feed lines. Use the bottom one and plug the top inlet.

• Because the bottom feed location, install the supplied braided brake line and tighten down the copper washers to prevent leakage of the hydraulic fluid.

• The brake pads can go onto the caliper and the caliper can be installed onto the rotor.

• Apply lubricant (silicon based) onto the pin that goes in through the caliper and the bracket. After installed, it is secured in place.

• Using a clevis pin adaptor, the emergency brake line is installed onto the actuating arm on the new brake caliper.
  
  
  

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  RESOURCES :
  

  Special resources for DIY's Classic Car Restoration 500 series: 1965 Mustang

  Mustang Club of America
  www.mustang.org

  Mustang Central
  vintage Mustang parts
  www.mustangcentral.com

  Motorbooks Publishing
  www.motorbooks.com

  Class-Tech-Cars
  www.class-tech-cars.com

  Holley Performance Products
  www.holley.com

  Flowmaster Exhaust Products
  www.flowmastermufflers.com

  Genuine Hot Rod Hardware
  www.genuinehotrod.com

  Revelation Racing Supply
  www.rrs-online.com

  National Parts Depot
  www.npdlink.com

  Classic Auto Air
  www.classicautoair.com

  Pertronix Performance Products
  www.pertronix.com

  Stainless Steel Brake Corp.
  www.ssbrakes.com

  Painless Performance Products
  www.painlessperformance.com

  Loctite Products
  www.henkel.com

  Paintucation
  www.paintucation.com

  Dupli-Color Paints
  www.duplicolor.com

  Norton Abrasives
  www.nortonabrasives.com

  Dremel Tools
  www.dremel.com

  Classic High Performance Audio
  Product: audio equipment

  Direct Source
  www.the-direct-source.com
  Product: stereo electronic equipment

  Dakota Digital Instruments
  www.dakotadigital.com
  Product: digital dashboard

  Mustang Project
  www.mustangproject.com
  Product: LED sequential taillight system

  
  

  GUESTS :
  

  Keller Wallace
  Keller Wallace Street Rods
  Volunteer Street Rod Association
  Knoxville, TN

  RELATED PROJECTS: 1965 Mustang Restoration: Introduction and Initial Assessment 1965 Mustang Restoration: Mustang History and Resources 1965 Mustang Restoration: Body Disassembly and Prep 1965 Mustang Restoration: Dual Brake Master-Cylinder Upgrade 1965 Mustang Restoration: Front Suspension, Disc Brake Conversion and Tilt Steering 1965 Mustang Restoration: Engine Performance Upgrades

  
  

  ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:
  	1965 Mustang Restoration: Wiring Harness Upgrade
  	1965 Mustang Restoration: Rear Disc Brake Conversion
  	1965 Mustang Restoration: Chassis and Handling Upgrade