DIY Network

1965 Mustang Restoration: Engine Performance Upgrades From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-503

(Continued from page 1)

	Performance carburetor
	Chrome valve covers

Project Overview

In this restoration, we're doing what we're calling to as a "resto-mod" on our 1965 Ford Mustang. By that we mean that we're restoring and modifying the car. We're not going to altering it's classic fastback styling, but we are going to make some modifications to mechanical components to make it safer, perform better and improve the overall driving experience.

We've already improved the suspension system, installed a modern tilt steering column and upgraded to front disc brakes. We'll upgrade to rear disc brakes later in the restoration.

In this current phase of the project, we tale on the engine — adding performance to our classic small block 289 V8 in the form of an aluminum intake manifold, a Holley four-barrel carburetor, improved water and fuel pumps and a modern electronic distributor.

The '65 Mustang is powered by a small block Ford engine — one of the classic American engines. This engine was originally introduced in 1962, and has now been in production for nearly four decades. As such, and because this model continues to be revered as such a classic, there are literally thousands of high-performance aftermarket parts we can add to this car. In addition to the parts mentioned, we're also going to install chrome valve covers and a high performance electronic ignition.

Dismantling Top of Engine

To get the engine upgrade underway, Steve disassembles the top of our '65 Mustang's engine by removing the distributor and plug wires, the carburetor, the intake manifold, hoses, fuel lines, the water pump, alternator and the fuel pump.

Tools and materials for this portion of the project:

masking tape
full set of wrenches and sockets
towels
catch basin
hammer with rubber head

Steps:

• If you're changing your water pump and intake manifold, be sure to remove the coolant from the engine and take the radiator, upper, and lower radiator hoses off. If you don't remove the coolant or the hoses, water can get down into the engine when you take the intake off.

• An important step at this point is take a note of the firing order and how your spark plugs are arranged in relationship to your distributor cap. Write the order down on a piece of paper so when you reinstall, it goes back together following the proper sequence.

• Also take note of the orientation of the distributor rotor. To do that, simply take a piece of tape with an arrow and place it on the driver's side front fender of the engine bay.

• The plug wires and distributor cap can now come off.

• Disconnect the fuel lines from the carburetor.

• Remove the four hex nuts that hold the carburetor to the intake manifold.
  

  advertisement

  
  
  

  Figure A

• Disconnect the throttle linkage and spring.

• The old carburetor comes off along with the old gasket (figure A).

• Important: Always cover open ports on the engine with fresh towels to prevent dirt and debris from getting inside the engine.

• The heater hoses also come off. Replace them with new ones if they are deteriorated.

• Place a catch basin on the floor, then disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and removed the line.

• Next disconnect the distributor wires from the ignition coil.

• With the distributor mounting bolts out, carefully remove the old distributor.

• A fresh towel in the distributor port will prevent debris from getting in the cam gears.

• Next loosen and remove the coil connection to the temperature sending unit, and the old wiring harness comes out.
  

  Figure B

• When removing the intake manifold bolts, be careful not to strip the threads. Use new bolts with the new aluminum intake manifold.

• The intake manifold can come out (figure B).

• Upgrading to shiny new valve covers is a great project for any hobbyist and is simple to do.

• The valve cover bolts come out and the valve covers come off.

• The fan mounting bolts come out and the fan can be removed.
  

  Figure C

• The alternator bracket bolts come out easily and the spacer can be removed. Then the alternator can be taken out (figure C).

• Then disconnect the alternator cable from the starter solenoid. The alternator bracket comes out so we can access the water pump.

• With the water pump bolts removed, it may take some encouragement to loosen the seal. It's important to have a catch basin for the water.

• Also remove the ignition coil just to have better access to the parts. It's also a good idea to put fasteners that you're going to re-use back in place so they do not get lost.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4