DIY Network

1938 Packard: Steering Linkage Reinstallation From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-406

Mark Lambert reinstalls the '38 Packard's newly serviced crank-arm. Packard termed the forward portion of the assembly the center steering link. Other terms for this part include bell-crank, center link, central-steering idler or center pivot. All of these terms refer to the same thing.

In this episode of Classic Car Restoration, host Mark Lambert focuses on the steering system in the restoration of a 1938 Packard Club Coupe. In this In this fourth segment of episode 406, Mark reinstalls the steering linkage.

Following is a summary of the major steps in the procedure as shown in the episode.

Materials used in this episode:

Standard automotive tools (socket-wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
Jack and jack-stands
Grease gun
Heavy gear-lube
Tap-hammer
Bench vise
Replacement steering center pivot-pin
Replacement bearings
Replacement cotter pins
Anti-seize compound
Eye protection
Protective gloves

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Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

Steps:

• Once installed, any up-and-down movement in the center steering link will result in steering-wheel play. The portion of the link with the bearings is secured in its fitting using shims that will minimize such movement.

• Carefully position the assembly beneath the vehicle (figure A), replacing it in the same position as it was before removal.

• Once the assembly is aligned in position, tap in a top shim with a hammer and punch (figure B)

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  

• Carefully tap the pin into place from underneath -- centered in the bearings -- until the tip of the pin protrudes through the opening (figure C) and the pin seats securely.

• Check the operation of the linkage, to make certain that it operates smoothly and doesn't bind, then secure the top of the pin with a castellated nut and cotter pin (figure D). The castellated nut should be torque-tightened to about 20 foot-pounds.

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

• To install the tie-rod end onto the spindle arm, install the washer then apply some anti-seize compound onto the tapered pin (figure E). This will allow the end to be removed more easily if it ever becomes necessary in the future.

• Position the tapered pin into the opening (figure F) and tap it in securely.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

• Secure the pin in position with a castellated nut and cotter pin (figure G).

• Use the grease gun to pump fresh grease into the tie-rod end (figure H) to create a good weather-seal.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

• The next step is to connect the pitman arm onto the drag-link. First, add some fresh grease to the ball of the pitman arm (figure I) and reinstall the dust-cap. The dust-cap serves to help keep the grease in and road-dirt out.

• Swing the drag-link over on top of the Pitman arm (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

• Install the threaded cap and tighten it down securely with a slotted screwdriver (figure K).

• Finally, install the cotter pin and secure it (figure L).

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

In summary, for this phase of the restoration we replaced the steering-crank bearings and fully cleaned and serviced the steering linkage assembly -- resulting in much tighter and more precise steering. The cost for the bearing kit was about $160. Aside from grease and fluids, that represents the total cost for this phase of the project. In a restoration shop, that same job might have cost as much as $2000 -- mainly since it involves removing the front end from the vehicle. But with two people working together, and with the proper tools and expertise, we were able to remove the front end without difficulty.

And while the front-end is off the car, Mark will perform an additional and very important phase in the restoration of the '38 Packard. In the episode that follows, he replaces the timing chain.

RESOURCES :


Resources and Special Thanks for Classic Car Restoration 400 series


The Packard Club
Columbus, Ohio
(National & regional clubs, car shows & judging, magazine, resources, etc.)
The Cormorant magazine
The Packard Club
www.packardclub.org

Packards International Motor Car Club
(National owner's club, judging rules, magazine, newsletter and other resources)
Santa Ana, CA
Packardsinternational.com

Packards of Chicagoland
(Regional affiliate of The Packard Club)
Elmhurst, IL
Packards of Chicagoland

America's Packard Museum
Dayton, Ohio
www.americaspackardmuseum.org

The National Packard Museum
Warren, OH (the birthplace of the Packard)
www.warren.org

The Packard Motor Car Foundation
(Foundation for preserving the Packard marque) Restoring the Packard Proving Grounds and other Packard activities.
www.packardmotorfdn.org

Motorbooks International
www.motorbooks.com

Automobile Inspections LLC
(Nationwide automobile appraisal & inspection services, including classic cars)
Hartford, CT
www.automobileinspections.com

Classic Auto Appraisals (Evaluation of Classics, Street Rods, Antiques, Competition Cars, Exotics, Commercial Vehicles and Hand Crafted Vehicles).
www.autoappraisals.com