DIY Network

Front Fork Unit: Shock and Brake Replacement From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-112

Host Kevin Tetz and Greg West (left) work on the shocks, brakes and engine of the project '74 Vespa Sprint Veloce scooter in this episode.

The '74 Vespa Sprint Veloce project scooter was been stripped down in the first episode, painted and seat recovered in the last episode ("Paint and Seat Re-Cover" Episode -- DCLR-111) and in this next-to-last "Vespa" episode, host Kevin Tetz and guest Greg West, a Vespa restoration expert, modify the engine and replace the shocks and brakes.

Thus far the focus of the restoration has been on the external parts. In this first segment Kevin and Greg start to buildup the good looking project scooter into a good running scooter by working on the front fork assemblies and replace the shocks and brakes.

When Kevin took the project scooter for a ride before the restoration began he found some problems:

• The scooter lacked "real" power.

• The brakes were far from par.

• The shocks were completely worn out. The smallest bump in the road caused discomfort.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C

Shock Replacement

The front fork assembly (figure A) on the '74 Vespa Sprint Veloce, according to Greg, was great -- especially due to the dampener spring on the backside that keeps the rebound under control.

• First things first -- discard the worn out shock. The old one is worn out as we mentioned earlier, and it's being replaced by an OEM shock (size 17), which is an exact replacement for this unit.

• Using a 17mm wrench, remove the nut from the lower mounting bolt.

• Remove the upper mounting bolt.

• Slide the old shock off (figure B) and you're ready to install the new one.

• Line up the detents on the shock with the indent on the shock mounting flange.

• Before putting the nut on, apply blue Threadlocker. Install the nut by hand and tighten it down with a wrench.

• Now put the upper part of the shock into place, and apply a drop of Threadlocker to the upper bolt and tighten it down in a clockwise motion threading it on (figure C).

  Note: With the new shock installed on the project scooter, there will be less bouncing in the front end, and it will let you have better control of the scooter overall.

	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H

Brake Replacement

• First the drum needs to be pulled off.

• Use a flat blade screwdriver and remove the hub dust cover, exposing the castle nut.

• Pry the cotter pin from the nut (figure D), and remove the castle nut from the axle.

• Tap the drum with a metal hammer to loosen it up on the shaft. You will feel when it gives.

• Check the brake shoes (figure E), which could be the ones that came with the original scooter. The pads have a tendency to get hard and glazed, and this is a friction braking system -- and you want something that's going to grab the hub. This means you'll want the right mating surface coming together.

• Using needle-nose pliers, remove the woodruff key (figure F).

• Next, slide the spring clip off the brake shoes.

• To remove the shoes, use a flathead screwdriver and place it behind the shoe so it rests against the back plate. Pry with the screwdriver, lifting the shoes off their posts. With one of the brake shoes off, the spring tension will just give way, allowing for easy removal of the other shoe from the cam.

• Using an abrasive pad, clean along the inside of the hub (figure G) to allow for good contact with the brake shoes.

• The reassemble the new brakes, attach the shoes with the original spring.

• For installation, put a bar in-between the shoes to get them back over the pin.

• With the shoes lines up with the pin, work the shoes onto its pivot. Tap the shoes down into place so t hey lay flush.

• Next, squeeze the clip back onto the pivot by giving it some tension.

• Put the woodruff key in place, and slide the refurbished brake drum onto the hub.

• Using a torque wrench, tighten down the washer and castle nut securely.

• Guide the cotter pin through the castle nut and twist the ends with needle-nose pliers.

• Install the dust cap.

• Lastly, reinstall the tension spring (figure H), which returns the brake-actuator arm to its home position, allowing the brake shoes to release from the drum.

In the next segment it's time to start working on the engine by installing a new and larger carburetor.

RESOURCES :

Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear)
Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com

RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com

Vespa Restoration Parts (Scomo)
Scomo
Website: www.scomo.net

Air Compressor (Bend-Pak)
Bend-Pak, Inc.
Website: www.bendpak.com

Stock Photos, Videos, CD Rom and Timesurfer (Piaggio)
Piaggio, USA, Inc.
Website: www.piaggio.com/

GUESTS :

Greg West
Scooter Restoration Expert
E-mail: wheelsX2@yahoo.com