DIY Network

Paint and Seat Re-Cover: Dent-Repair Techniques From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-111

Figure A

In the last segment host Kevin Tetz shared some painting techniques for your project scooter. In this segment he demonstrates some dent-repair techniques.

The DIY project scooter was in pretty good shape, but Kevin brought a spare chassis in for the demonstrations. These techniques are basic bodywork processes that will straighten out the metal and get it ready for primer.

Kevin's Dent-Repair Technique Tips:

Note: You'll need some specific tools for bodywork -- mainly a body hammer and dolly (figure A). Use hammers that are meant to strike metal or you could put yourself in danger. You'll also need metal files, finishing putty and corresponding sandpapers.

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	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F

• There are many surfaces to work against when working the metal. You don't want to always just beat the heck out everything. You can sometimes move things around with other tools.

• Metal doesn't disappear. It just gets moved around. For this particular chassis, there's a low spot (figure B) where Kevin can take his pliers and just give it a gentle persuasion over a bit -- and he lets the metal dictate how far because he doesn't want to over stress it.

• With the low spot, support the front of the chassis with the heal dolly and tap gently with the hammer from the back. Switch positions and place the contoured dolly against the contoured backside (figure C) of the panel for support. Now hammer the front of the scooter frame.

• Continue to work both sides of the frame. You don't want to stretch the metal, so make sure to hammer on the inside and outside of the chassis.

• Continue the hammer-and-dolly technique to work out any dents on the scooter's frame.

• When you're satisfied with the contour of the fame, it's time to do a metal-file technique, which will accomplish two things:
  1. It will reveal any high spots or low spots that re in the metal.

  2. It's going to help flatten out the metal in preparation for the primer.

• Using a file, go over the damaged area, exposing any high or low spots in the metal.

  Note: Where it's still shiny (figure D) is a low spot or high spot that the metal has broken through, which means Kevin has to go back and tweak with a hammer and dolly.

• After the low and high spots are repaired, it's time for the finishing putty, but before you do that you have to sand the surface and get it ready for the putty to stick to it. Use 60-grit sandpaper to take the surface of the paint down to the bare metal. Work the surface back and forth, putting tooth in the metal so the putty will have a surface to adhere to.

• The finishing putty that Kevin uses is polyester, which is very fine and actually engineered to be able to adhere to paint if it is given the proper tooth.

  Note: A common question that Kevin gets with catalyst is how much hardener should be put in the filler? The easy solution, which you don't have to weigh out or mix up, is to put down however much putty you think you'll need and just go across it with the catalyst (figure E).

• Mix the material together, and with no streaks visible, apply the putty to the damaged areas. Work from the top down and apply a smooth coat no thicker than 1/4" because the putty sets up quickly. You need to be sure of the application.

  Safety Alert: Be sure to use a safety mask because this process can create some dust.

• Begin the blocking process with 60-grit sandpaper, and use a 45-degree angle to avoid cutting grooves in the metal surface.

• Repeat the same blocking process, using a 180-grit sandpaper. The finer sandpaper will remove scratch marks from the 60-grit paper and give the metal surface a nice, smooth tooth (figure F).

The metal has been re-contoured, using the hammer-and-dolly technique, and the surface was abraded to give the proper tooth needed, and finally, the finishing putty was applied and smooth with a two-stage blocking. Now the frame is ready for a coat of primer, which gets you one step closer to the painting process.

In the next segment Kevin will powder coat the scooter rim and restore the seat.

RESOURCES :

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

Vespa Restoration Parts (Scomo)
Scomo
Website: www.scomo.net

Stock Photos, Videos, CD Rom and Timesurfer (Piaggio)
Piaggio, USA, Inc.
Website: www.piaggio.com/

Touch-Up, Spray and Color-Shifting Paint (Dupli-color)
Dupli-color
Website: www.duplicolor.com