DIY Network

Tank Emblems and Install Tanks and Fenders From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-108

Figure A

The emblems that came with the new fuel tanks for the '65 Electra Glide project bike need a little help, so host Kevin Tetz and expert mechanic Bill "Dunk" Dunkleberger are fortunate to have reproductions of the emblems that are an exact match of the original emblems (figure A).

Adding the Emblems

• The emblems come in a flat package so they have to be arched a bit, and this has to be done with care and finesse. Simply put a bow in them until they match the contour of the tank.

  Note:You don't want to over-band or kink anything because that ruins the emblem.

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	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D

Installing the Tanks

• First, put in the fasteners but be careful due to dealing with fresh paint. You don't want to bruise anything.

  
  FYI: "Bruise" means to pull the paint off metal while it's still in the curing process.

  
  

• Put the vent tube that goes in-between the tanks on. Be sure to remove any masking or paint plugs on the fitting and insert the vent tube (Figure B) and clamps. And tighten the first clamp.

  
  Note: The hose clamps will be hidden by the dash panel so make sure you have a good, snug fit.

  
  

• Before putting the tank in, insert the rear mounting bolt through the frame and the washer (figure C), and put the tank in place, aligning the mounting bracket with the bolt. And secure the rear mounting bolt.

  
  

• The front mounting bolt goes in through the tank bracket and frame mount. It'll be secured with the second tank is installed.

  
  

• The second tank goes into place and the rear fastener is tightened.

  
  

• Secure the bypass hose to the second tank, and then the top front mounting bolt can be secured (figure D). Add the washer and nut -- and tighten.

  
  

• The bottom mounting bolt is inserted through the first tank bracket, the frame and the second tank bracket. Add the washer and nut -- and tighten.

  
  

• Go back and tighten the top mounting bolts.

	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

Installing the Fenders

• Since you'll be working with fresh-painted surface be sure to take care not to scratch or bruise the paint. Simply apply some gentle pressure to get the fender in-between the fork tubes (figure E).

  Note: Kevin left the safety wire in place so the spacers will be in the right position when he slides the bolt through. This makes the assembly easier.

• Add threadlocker to the first fender bolt and insert the bolt through the fender into the fork mounting -- and tighten the fender in place. Do the same with the second mounting bolt.

• Now move on to the rear fender. Loosen up the fender struts so they can be spread apart gently. Ease the fender in without scratching.

• Let the rear fender sit on the wheel while you align it properly (figure F).

• Adjust the wiring harness as needed, and line the fender up with the mounting strut.

• Install the front fender bolt from inside the strut and fender -- and install the outside locking nut.

• Install the rear fender bolts from outside (figure G) -- and tighten.

• With the fender secure, tighten the fender struts.

	Figure H
	Figure I

Finishing the Fuel Tank Installation

After the fenders are on, you have to complete the installation of the fuel tanks:

• To finish up the installation of the fuel tanks, Kevin put a little bit of Teflon tape the petcock threads, which is extra insurance to make sure there are no leaks. He then inserted the petcock and threaded by hand -- and tightened with a wrench (figure H).

  
  

• Put the fuel line in by threading it through, using a bit of petroleum jelly for lubricant. Tighten the fuel line clamp.

  
  

• Do the same thing with the cross-over line -- and tighten the clamp.

  
  

• Install the crow-over line to the other tank.

  
  

• To install the main fuel line to the carburetor, remove the air cleaner backing plate. Add some lubricant to the carburetor fitting, and install the main fuel line, which comes from the tank and the petcock on the other side. Then tighten the clamp to secure the line. Put the air cleaner backing plate back on -- and the new air cleaner and the shiny, new air cleaner cover (figure I).

In the final segment the new seat will be installed.

RESOURCES :

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

Auto Body Color and Supply
Phone: 615-726-0361 (Nashville Store)

Corbin Saddles & Accessories
Website: www.corbin.com

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com