DIY Network

Color Sanding and Polishing Painted Parts From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-108

Figure A

The body work on the '65 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide has been painted and in the last segment the new exhaust system was installed. In this segment host Kevin Tetz and expert mechanic Bill "Dunk" Dunkleberger color sand and polish the painted parts of the project bike.

"We've retained the original stock-style two-tone paint job," Kevin said. "But we've used a modern urethane paint that's going to give us a long-lasting, very durable paint job."

Color Sanding and Buffing

Color sanding and buffing (figure A) means that Kevin and Dunk will be sanding out certain imperfections in the paint -- sanding them flat and then buffing them up with a series of compound steps that will produce a "mirror" gloss.

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	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

• Drag a single-edged razor blade over a sheet of fine sandpaper, which will create a burr (figure B) on the top side of the spot to be color sanded. Take the razor blade and bend it into a slight "u" shape.

• Use the razor blade to "gently" scrape away the raised area of the clear-coat drip. Because the blade is bent, it won't dig into the corners. You may have to use fingertip pressure here.

• Next, use fine 1,000-grit sandpaper to level the area off (figure C). Soak the paper in soapy water first and also spray the area with soapy water during the sanding process. The soap keeps the sanding area lubricated.

• Use gentle pressure to remove the razor blade scuffs.

• Go one step further and use 2,500-grit sandpaper. This extremely fine grit will give a small tooth to buff up. Make sure the clear-coat drip has been completely leveled out.

• Now it's time for the color sanding process. Use a 1,500-grit disk on a dual-action sander (figure D). Spritz the panel down and use a water blade or a squeegee to wipe off the surface and be sure to check your progress as you go.

  Note: Again, spray soapy water onto the sander and the body panel before sanding.

  Tip: You don't need to press down on the sander. Let it and the sandpaper do the work for you.

• Switch to a very fine 3,000-grit sanding disk, and be sure to keep the surface wet during the sanding process.

• Move on to compounding, and you'll want to use a dedicated system that works well together. Don't jump around with different products in other words.

• Along with the steps of the compound, there are also different pads -- one pad for each step. Be sure "not" to cross-contaminate.

• Use a small amount of the compound -- dime size (figure E). Spread the polishing compound over the area and let the buffer and compound do the work.

• Monitor your progress and use a micro-fiber towel to check the gloss of the finish. This should finish the first stage of polishing.

• Change the pad and move to the next stage of polishing -- this one with an ultro-fine pad. Repeat the steps from the first stage.

• Finally, go over the area(s) with a last hand buff. This way you won't create any swirl marks.

In the next segment some new emblems will be added to the tank and the freshly painted body parts will be installed.

RESOURCES :

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

Auto Body Color and Supply
Phone: 615-726-0361 (Nashville Store)

Corbin Saddles & Accessories
Website: www.corbin.com

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com