DIY Network

Metal Restoration and Buffing From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-106

	In this final segment, host Kevin Tetz will show you how to take aluminum parts that look dingy (on right) and restore them to their former luster (on left).
	Figure A

Host Kevin Tetz says you can't do a motorcycle restoration without a lot of "shiny parts" -- and this '65 Electra Glide is certainly no exception. This particular bike has a lot of chrome and a lot of polished aluminum. Unfortunately, polished aluminum sometimes takes on a bit of a "dingy" appearance, due to it being a weaker metal that oxidizes quickly.

Fortunately, this oxidized metal can be restored to look like new, and Kevin will show you how to achieve this with your project bike.

There are a lot of different tools you can use; for example, a stationary buffer for larger parts that can be removed from the bike and buffed on the wheel. And there are various hand tools, where the buffs actually attach to the tool so you can get into tight crevices and spaces. You'll need a cutting wheel and a fine-polishing wheel.

The stationary buffing wheel (figure A) has two cotton wheels on it -- one for cutting or removing scratches and one for fine polishing. Buffing compounds are available for all levels and surfaces and for major scratches or fine polishing -- and for metal, plastic or glass. There's also a hand paste polish to put a final coat on, and it actually helps against oxidation.

With aluminum pieces, the good news is that you can repair scratches and a little bit of external damage. The casting is usually thick so there will be some wiggle room.

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	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	The damaged piece comes out looking brand new!

Getting Started

1. Start with a coarse 180-grit sandpaper to level the area.

   Tip: Aluminum is a soft metal so you don't need to press hard.

2. Use a 220-grit paper to get the rough edges out, and then step up to a 320-grit sandpaper.

   Note: Kevin used an air-powered "D-A" sander (figure B) with a fine 500-grit sanding disk to smooth out the whole area.

   Safety Alert: When restoring metal be sure to wear protective gear -- dust mask, head shield, gloves and even an apron to protect your clothing.

3. To dress the buffs, the first thing is to just touch the compound to the wheel (figure C) just enough to change the color of the wheel. You don't want to overload because you can re-add as necessary.

4. Holding the part firm and against the lower part of the wheel (figure D), press the surface against the cutting wheel, moving it back and forth across a small area. The scratches should polish up immediately.

5. Continue with the other areas, being careful to keep the piece tilted down so it doesn't catch the wheel and jerk up.

6. With the wheel still spinning, add more compound as needed when the color on the wheel begins to fade.

7. Before moving on to a finer polishing compound, wipe the residue off the part. Then apply a polishing compound to the polishing wheel and continue buffing.

8. Lastly, give the piece a hand-buff with some polishing paste, just to give it a final touch and get rid of any residual compound that's been left behind.

Tips:

• Using the same procedure as the stationary wheel, use hand buffing tools on parts that you can't easily remove from the bike.

• A large buffing pad (figure E) works well for the hubcap and the forks.

• A cone-shaped buffing head works great for the recessed areas.

• A rotary tool with a small buffing bit (figure F) gets into really tight areas well.

• A softer buffing pad with the fine polishing compound will complete the job, but don't forget to hand polish the last thing.

• One last thing you can do for the part is to apply a metal sealer to prevent tarnishing. Mix the two-part system as directed. Then wipe the part in one direction, covering it with a thin film of sealer -- and let it completely dry. After the sealer is cured, give the part a final buff with the finishing polish and you're done for two years.

Figure E

Figure F

In the seventh episode Kevin will be joined by automotive painter Nate Chase to prepare the fenders and gas tank for painting. And expert Harley-Davidson mechanic, Dunk Dunkelberger, joins the host to install a new handlebar, and he hooks up the headlights. The electrical restoration is completed as well.

RESOURCES :

Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

Miller Welding and Electric Manufacturing Co.
Website: www.millerwelds.com

Peek Multi-Purpose Metal Polish
Peek International Sales
PO Box 952
Escondido, CA 92033-0952
Phone/Fax: 760-690-4025

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com

Ron Covell
Metalworker
Covell Creative Metalworking
106 Airport Blvd.
Suite #201
Freedom, CA 95019
Toll-free: 800-747-4631
Phone: 831-247-4324
Fax: 831-768-0706
E-mail: covell@cruzio.com
Website: www.covell.biz/