DIY Network

Fabrication with Ron Covell (Pt. 2) From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-106

Figure A

Metal welding expert Ron Covell and host Kevin Tetz began the fabrication of the project '65 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide in the first segment of this episode, and they continue the process in this second segment.

Welding

The pieces that were domed in the first segment are now going to be TIG welded together.

Note: TIG stands for Tungsten Inert Gas (figure A), which means the electrode that the heat comes from is made of tungsten and there's a stream of arc that comes off that, creating a stream of heat that melts the metal together. There is a shield of argon gas that surrounds the arc so it doesn't oxidize. This enables you to make a clean, minute well-controlled weld, which is why Ron recommends this particular process.

Any metal that can be welded can be done so with the TIG process.

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	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F

Note: An inverter-style welder (figure B), a great power source, was used by Ron to weld the pieces together. It can run on any power supply from 110 to 440. It's an AC/DC machine, which means any metal can be welded. And finally, the control of all phases of the arc is excellent.

1. Put one tack-weld at the first joint for starters (figure C), and then move approximately 3/4" to the next tack-weld. By doing this there won't be warping.

   Safety Alert: When welding be sure to wear an approved welding helmet. This goes for anyone watching or assisting the process. It's a good idea to wear approved welding gloves as well.

   Note: Because Ron is using his left hand to align the panels, he makes these initial welds without adding a filler rod, which are called fusion welds.

2. With the panels holding in place, go back to the bottom edge and adjust the pieces so the edges line up. Then tack-weld the bottom area, now inserting a filler rod into the spot (figure D), which will strengthen the weld.

3. With the piece stabilized, remove the bar that supported the back of the panels, and continue tack-welding along the joint.

4. With the tack-welding done (with the welds no more than an inch apart), it's time to weld. Holding the filler rod in front of the welding tip, move along the joint.

5. Use hammer-and-dolly metal forming tools (figure E) to level out the joints.

6. Use a disk sander to flatten the weld, and then run a file lightly over the surface with the file only touching the highest spots so if anything is left you'll know it's a low spot. You can start tapping up the low spots by using a bulls-eye pick. Then file again.

7. Sand with 240-grit sandpaper to get the shine and smoothness desired (figure F -- newly sanded on top).

In the next segment Kevin will get into one of his favorite detailing techniques: powder coating.

RESOURCES :

Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

Miller Welding and Electric Manufacturing Co.
Website: www.millerwelds.com

Peek Multi-Purpose Metal Polish
Peek International Sales
PO Box 952
Escondido, CA 92033-0952
Phone/Fax: 760-690-4025

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com

Ron Covell
Metalworker
Covell Creative Metalworking
106 Airport Blvd.
Suite #201
Freedom, CA 95019
Toll-free: 800-747-4631
Phone: 831-247-4324
Fax: 831-768-0706
E-mail: covell@cruzio.com
Website: www.covell.biz/