DIY Network

Fabrication with Ron Covell (Pt. 1) From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-106

In this sixth episode of nine, host Kevin Tetz will start the fabrication process on the project '65 Electra Glide. He'll be joined by fabrication expert -- Ron Covell.

The DIY project '65 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide has come a long way in the first five episodes of this nine-episode restoration, and host Kevin Tetz will be joined by Ron Covell, a metal-fabrications expert, to discuss and demonstrate the fabrication and trim restoration.

This '65 pan head is going to be restored exactly like the off-the-line version, with the correct body, trim and accessories. The Electra Glide was the original "King of the Highway" with a fully loaded accessory package that included side handlebars, dual-tinted windshield, solo pogo-style seat, fiberglass saddlebags and lots of chrome. Basically it was a predecessor of today's "Road King" touring series.

Since these bikes were so popular for many years and because they were often customized to keep up with changing motorcycle trends, it's not uncommon to see a '65 Electra Glide with different tanks, fenders, wilder paint schemes and a lot of different accessories. And, of course, custom metal fabrication is one of the hottest aspects of restoration and body work today. Kevin and Ron, who has been doing this type of work for almost 40 years, will explore some techniques and procedures on customizing and fabricating the parts to personalize the ride.

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Ron brought three custom Harley-Davidson parts to share with all DIY viewers and online visitors:

1. Gas Tank (figure A).

2. Hot-Rod Air Cleaner (figure B).

3. Indian-Style Fender (figure C).

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

Getting Started

Any time you're going to make something from metal, early in the process you need to decide how many pieces it will be made from and where the seams are between the pieces. For this particular fender, Kevin and Ron will use a three-piece construction -- one piece for the right side, one for the left side and a curved cap that joins them.

1. The first step in this process is to put a little bit of doming in each side piece, and you don't want the fender to be dead flat on the side.

   Note: A lot of '60s cars or even older cars had a straight and flat fender, but there was always a crown in the panel -- both for style and strength.

2. Use an English Wheel (figure D) to put the dome in the part and then once it has a little bit of doming, use the bead roller to put the step in the fender.

3. Dome the part up approximately 1/4" and then lighten the pressure and go over it a few more times to smooth it out and make sure the doming is uniform. Loosen the English Wheel rollers and move the metal through on a 45-degree angle from the first tracking pattern.

   Tip: The more frequently you cross the tracking pattern, the smoother the curvature comes out.

4. Use the step dyes and the bead rolling machine to put the detail on the side of the fender. There's a guide on the machine (figure E), and always keep the edge of the metal in contact with that guide. The metal used for the project bike is 18-gauge cold-steel sheet, which is available at any metal supply store.

   Tip: If you're making a panel to fit in something that's existing, such as a panel, match the thickness of the original metal.

5. Use the same machine with a different dye set to put the curl on the top edge of the fender sides. The curling process often stretches the edge some, so a final step for the edges is to run it through a metal shrinker (figure F). You want a result of an even curve that lays flat against the table.
   
6. Bend the inside edge of the finished fender over and hammer flat to create a nice seam.

7. For the cap of the fender, bend a flat sheet of metal to the contour shape of the side pieces (figure G). Once you have a close match with the shape, the next step is to work it with a mallet and sandbag to dome the shape up. Then smooth it out with an English Wheel.

8. Lay the metal on a metal-forming sandbag and hammer it with a doming mallet.

   Safety Alert: It's important to use hearing protection during this process.

9. Once the top panel has taken shape you can curl over the edges as was done with the side panels.

10. Use the shrinker machine to finish the edge as you did with the side panels.

In the next segment Kevin and Ron talk about the welding and some metal finishing techniques.

RESOURCES :

Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

Miller Welding and Electric Manufacturing Co.
Website: www.millerwelds.com

Peek Multi-Purpose Metal Polish
Peek International Sales
PO Box 952
Escondido, CA 92033-0952
Phone/Fax: 760-690-4025

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com

Ron Covell
Metalworker
Covell Creative Metalworking
106 Airport Blvd.
Suite #201
Freedom, CA 95019
Toll-free: 800-747-4631
Phone: 831-247-4324
Fax: 831-768-0706
E-mail: covell@cruzio.com
Website: www.covell.biz/