DIY Network

Wheels, Tires and Grease Hubs From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-105

Figure A

Host Kevin Tetz and Harley-Davidson master mechanic Bill "Dunk" Dunkelberger are close to getting the project '65 Electra Glide back on the road, but in the last segment of this episode they'll take care of the new wheels and tires -- and then grease the hubs.

The old front-wheel assembly (figure A) had steel wheels, steel spokes and running tubes. These are labeled "tubeless or tubed application," which means you can put the tire on a tubeless rim, but for the project bike tubes are needed because it has spokes.

Note: Use tire tubes when installing spoke wheels to prevent air leakage at the spoke fittings.

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	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I

There are literally 100s of different styles of wheels that you can put on your bike -- for example, aluminum, solid billet and custom wheels. For the project bike, Kevin has decided to stay with the classic spoke wheels to retain the character of the '65 Electra Glide.

Getting Started

• There's a rim strip (figure B) that protects the rims. Pull it off to check for moisture damage, which the project bike definitely has -- rust being the result.

• Use an abrasive pad on the rusted areas and wipe the residue, and then use a rust encapulator paint to seal the area and stop further rusting.

  Safety Alert: As mentioned in the previous segment, always work in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask for protection when working with spray paint.

• Let the paint dry and then it will be ready for mounting and balancing.

  Note: The new tires are '65 period-correct wide whitewalls (figure C) that are still being made today. They also bias ply tires instead of radials, which are mostly used on sport and racing bikes. The blue color on the whitewalls is a protective coating. To remove, use warm water and light scrubbing. Don't use a commercial cleaner or wheel dressing for this task.

• The new tire also has alignment arrows (figure D) to indicate how they should be installed. The arrow is a sign that this is a directional tire. It must be rotated the proper way while it's being mounted on the bike. It's also a front-wheel application, which means there's no room for error.

• A new tube is going to be placed in the tire as well. This is a prudent move and money well spent because it basically ensures that the tube will not fall off regardless the condition of the tire.

  Note: The tires were sent out to be mounted an balanced.

• The front wheel goes into place along with the new hubcap (figure E) and axle, which you may have to "convince" with a mallet.

• The fork caps go on and are secured with their fasteners. Don't snug them just yet because the bolts go in first, which will fasten the hub to the drum. Use the Allen key to tighten them up.

• Line up the bolt holes with the hole in the hubcap, and install the hub bolts to snug. When the bolts are in, wrap duct tape around the Allen key (figure F) to prevent it from marring the new hubcap -- and torque the hub bolts down

• Snug down the cap nuts, and try to get an even gap (figure G) for both sides.

• Turn the wheel around and get the nut on the other side.

• Tighten the main axle nut along with the brake pivot nut. The washer goes over the axle nut and then a castellated nut.

• Then the new cotter pin goes in and is secured.

• The rear wheel goes into place along with the axle spacer and the axle (figure H).

• Rotate and align the flat side of the axle with the hubcap and snap into place.

• Install the hub bolts and torque those down.

• Install the axle spacers and nuts onto the wheel, leaving them loose in order to finish installing the new drive chain, which is an o-ring type chain that is put together using an o-ring link pin. It's important to grease both the pin and the receiving chain links.

• The pin goes on, holding the chain together, and the master link plate is pressed into place.

• Use another link plate with larger holes in it to press the master link and cover together. A c-clamp (figure I) does the trick.

• The link clip goes on to secure the master link, and Dunk suggests installing the closed end of the clip in the direction of the tire rotation.

• Adjust the chain tension and hand-tighten the chain adjuster. Adjust using wrenches, checking the tension of the chain as you go.

• Tighten the axle nut and secure the retaining nut.

• Finally, grease the hubs by attaching the grease gun to the fitting on the rear hub and apply the grease. Do the same for the front hubcap.

An important corner has been turned in restoring the '65 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide. In the next episode Kevin and Dunk start building the bike back up.

RESOURCES :

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear)
Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com

RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

Bias-Ply Whitewall Tires (Dunlop)

These tires are restoration correct 130/90-16 front and rear bias-ply whitewall tires.

Dunlop Tire Corp.
Website: www.dunlop.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com