DIY Network

Frame Work: Paint and Detail, Rear Suspension, Upgrade Shocks From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-105

In the first segment host Kevin Tetz prepared the project '65 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide frame for painting and detailing. The bike has been wiped down and sanded and now it's time to mask the parts with paper in order to protect them from the overspray.

Masking the Parts

• Tape off the fittings, bolts and other areas to protect them from paint.

  Note: Kevin used a masking cart (figure A) to hang the paper on. It saves time because it attaches the tape to the paper and keeps it up off the ground.

• Tuck and tape the paper in as necessary to mask off the areas, and tape the paper up as necessary to prevent over-spray from seeping through the seams.

• With the masking complete (figure B), there's only one step left before the painting begins -- a final wipe down with a tack rag to get the dust particles that have settled.

Figure A

Figure B

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	Figure C
	Figure D

Spray Painting

Safety Alert: Be sure to wear a respirator and paint in a well-ventilated area. Kevin used a non-isocyanate-based paint, which can cause severe reactions if you don't use a mask and have an outside air supply.

• First, spray the chipped and sanded areas with a rust-encapsulator paint (figure C) to prevent further rusting.

• Spray the entire frame with the first coat of frame paint. This is called a "tack" coat, which means it's not a full-wet coat -- a setup coat in other words.

  Note: You don't want to completely wet down the paint job before you put a tack coat down when using a spray can because there will be a potential for runs.

• Let this flash (when solvents have evaporated from the surface layer -- the surface will be dry to the touch) a bit longer and then hit it with a final coat, which is the wet coat or "final" coat.

• Let the paint dry for approximately one hour, and then come back and unmask it.

• Once you unmask the frame, if a couple of spots were missed, here's a good tip from Kevin: Simply spray some topcoat paint into a cup, and then use a brush (figure D) to apply the paint. Do the same with other parts that you want to touch-up.

Rear Suspension Upgrade

With the frame dry and the old shock absorber removed, this is a good time to install a new fender strut and new gas-filled shock.

• The strut, engine guard and top shock absorber bracket (figure E) go on in one piece, and the shock stud is tightened down.

• The stud nut goes on and is tightened down.

• Install two spacers to the lower shock mount and one spacer to the upper mount.

• Install the new gas-filled shock absorber (figure F), fitting it through the bottom mount and the top mount.

• On the lower mount, install the spacer and washer. Add some blue medium-hold threadlocker to the stud, and then install the nut.

• On the upper mount, install the bushing and the shock stud cover (figure G). Apply threadlocker to the stud, add the nut and tighten it down.

Figure E

Figure F

Figure G

In the next segment Bill "Dunk" Dunkelberger -- resident Harley-Davidson expert mechanic -- joins Kevin to service the front forks on the project '65 Electra Glide.

RESOURCES :

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear)
Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com

RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

Bias-Ply Whitewall Tires (Dunlop)

These tires are restoration correct 130/90-16 front and rear bias-ply whitewall tires.

Dunlop Tire Corp.
Website: www.dunlop.com

Norton Abrasives

Sandpapers, cleaners, abrasives and bodywork supplies.
Website: www.nortonautomotive.com