| Inspect Primary Chain, Inspect Clutch, Install New Clutch Cable |
From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-104 |
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In the last segment host Kevin Tetz and Harley-Davidson expert William "Dunk" Dunkelberger installed a new drive "secondary" chain and removed the rear wheel and fender from the project '65 Electra Glide. Kevin will inspect the primary chain and clutch and install a new clutch cable in this segment.Inspecting the Primary Chain and Clutch - First, remove the primary cover (figure A) to inspect the primary chain and clutch.
Note: The exhaust pipe, heat shield and foot peg were removed for better access to the fasteners in order to get to the cover. - For the project bike Kevin didn't hear any excessive noise or slapping noise from the primary chain so it won't have to be replaced.
Note: When you inspect the primary chain you'll be looking for free play, and you need no more than 3/8" to 5/8" of free play on a cold chain. Also look for any debris in the bottom of the case.
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 Figure E
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 Figure F
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 Figure G
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 Figure H
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- The new clutch cable is braided stainless steel (figure E), which will look great and hold up well.
Note: Before installing a new clutch cable it's a great idea to lubricate the cable's housing, and Dunk has a cable lubing tool (figure F) that's perfect for the job. Dunk says to hold a towel over the end and spray a lubricating oil into the small hole of the cable lubing tool. The oil is forced down into the cable. Dunk actually uses a combination of the chain lubricant and a Teflon-type lubricant. - Once the cable is lubricated put it back into the lever, flip it around and in the same hand position (so you won't lose the washers) pop it right back in (figure G).
- Go to the bike with the new braided cable and line up the hole and set it back into place.
- With the clutch lever in place, align and install the pivot pin (figure H). It goes back right where it came from, and then put the bracket back in and insert the clip.
The procedure is the reverse from when you removed the cable. Slide the cable through the slot in the bracket and hand-start the threads. Put the bracket back in and go to the other clip and insert it. - Now it's time to adjust the cable. You want to look for any slack and you may have to add a little more tension in the line. Once you have the cable adjusted down where you want it, be sure to snug down the tension nut. Just give it a finger-tight turn just to snug it up a bit.
- Slide the boot over the top and the new stainless steel braided clutch cable is in place.
Tip: Before you put the primary cover back on give it a quick buff just to shine it up a little. This is much easier to do since it's off the bike. - Put the cover back on.
In the next segment the rear hydraulic brakes are inspected and Kevin bleeds the brake system.
RESOURCES :
Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com
The Eastwood Company
The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.
The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com
Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear) Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com
RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries) SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com
Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome) Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com
CycleDry Compact Motorcycle Dryer (Georgia Cycle Works)
Georgia Cycle Works
Website: www.cycledry.com
GUESTS :
William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com
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