DIY Network

Install New Drive "Secondary" Chain, Remove Rear Wheel and Fender From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-104

In this fourth episode of nine, host Kevin Tetz (right) and Dunk, resident Harley-Davidson expert mechanic, upgrade the driveline and brakes.

In the first two episodes of DIY's new Classic Rides series, host Kevin Tetz and expert Harley-Davidson mechanic Bill "Dunk" Dunkleberger gave the project '65 Electra Glide a mechanical evaluation, went over the restoration plan (Episode DCLR-101) and upgraded the camshaft and valve systems (Episode DCLR-102).

In this third of nine episodes, Kevin and Dunk install a new "secondary" drive chain, remove the rear wheel and fender, inspect the primary chain and clutch, install a new clutch cable, inspect the rear hydraulic brake system, discuss brake fluid specifications, bleeds the brakes and service the front mechanical brakes by installing a new brake cable, cleaning the brakes and installing new brake shoes.

They get started in this first segment by cleaning the bike, installing a new secondary drive chain and removing the rear wheel and fender.

Note: The spirit of a motorcycle is the driveline, which consists of the primary chain and the secondary chain.

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Figure A

Cleaning the Bike

• The bike was stripped in the first two episodes, and now it's time to give it a thorough cleaning. Note that there is a difference between detailing a bike and washing it. For this DIY project bike Kevin and Dunk are using simple soaps and some strong cleaners, and to get into the tight crevices they'll use some detail or scrub brushes (figure A), which will make the job much easier.

• Don't let the bike drip dry because you want to get the water spots off and not let them dry naturally. Water spots could contain chemicals and minerals that would etch your bright work or the paint work. Cycle Dry (a compact tool that folds) is a handy tool that fits in the saddle bag, and Keven and Dunk used it on the project bike.

	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D

Secondary Drive Chain

• First, put the bike up on a stand to have better access to the chain.

• Find the master link (figure B) and with a pair of pliers clip it and push it off. Use a hammer and punch to remove the pins holding the master chain link.

  Alert: Don't take off the old chain just yet. If you do you'll spend the rest of the day trying to feed it through the front because you have to get it on the sprocket on the front and pull it back around.

• Use the master link to attach the new chain to the old chain (figure C) -- and pull it through. You're basically pulling old chain through and off by using the new chain.

• Loosen the axel nut and adjusters (figure D) and push the wheel all the way to the front.

  Tip: Push the wheel forward before fitting the chain.

• Next loosen the nut that holds the brake drum in place (figure E). By loosening it the axle will be able to pivot in order to push it forward.

• Now you can pull the chain up and put it together. This works well because the old chain will come off, which will allow the bottom chain (figure F) link to be sitting right where you need it. There will be a lot of adjustment on this chain, which means it will have more life because it has room to stretch.

  Tip: Order a longer chain than needed and cut to length once fitted.

• Mark the link using a cable tie and then use a die grinder to grind down the braded pin at the link (figure G) and a punch to knock the link loose.

Figure E

Figure F

Figure G

Figure H

• The new o-ring chain (figure H), which didn't come with the bikes originally back in the '60s, will make the project bike run smoother. It's going to hold the lubrication a bit longer. And the chain will last longer with less adjustments.

• The last thing to do is to remove the rear wheel and fender. Do this by loosening and "removing" the axle nuts and the hub bolts. Dunk uses a brass pin and a mallet to separate the brake drum from the wheel. The taillight wires had to be cut (and will be replaced later) in order to remove the fender.

In the next segment Kevin and Dunk will remove the primary cover, service the primary chain, inspect the clutch and install a new one.

RESOURCES :

Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com

The Eastwood Company

The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com

Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear)
Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com

RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

CycleDry Compact Motorcycle Dryer (Georgia Cycle Works)
Georgia Cycle Works
Website: www.cycledry.com

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com