DIY Network

Homemade Oil Cooler (2 of 2), Stainless Steel Oil Lines From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-103

In this final segment of the third episode, host Kevin Tetz and Harley-Davidson master mechanic Bill "Dunk" Dunkelberger dress up the oil lines of the project '65 Electra Glide with some braided stainless lines so it matches the fuel lines and new handle-bar controls.

The stainless steel braided line will be used to run off the front of the homemade oil cooler that was created in the last segment. The line will run back to the oil pump. It has to be a specific length. Use your old lines to measure the new ones. There are a lot of ways to cut the line, but over the years Dunk has found a way that works well for him.

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Cutting Stainless Steel Oil Lines the Dunk Way

• Tighten a rod in a vice and take the stainless steel line and run it over the rod (figure A). The rod is used as a holding tool.

• Using a rotary cutter and duct tape, mark the cutting area to keep the braided metal from fraying -- and cut (figure B).

  Note: If you don't have access to stainless steel braided line, you can use a sleeving kit (figure C), which is an aluminum braided sleeve that fits over the 3/8" oil line. You can actually use this over any line to cover the cables, vacuum lines or even the heater hoses.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

• It works easily. Simply use a screwdriver to open the top of the braided aluminum sleeve, and then slide it over the end of the line or hose, pushing it as you work it down. Don't try to do the entire length at one time. For the first step just get it on the pre-cut line or hose. Then work it down gradually -- and be patient.

• You can use scissors to cut the sleeve, and then stretch the sleeve to fit the pre-cut hose or line. This makes for a great dress-up and looks just like the braided stainless steel line.

• Finally, cut the end and then you have two options for the final step:
  1. You can use electrician's tape to wrap the end and cut for final fit, or

  2. You can use heat-shrinking tubing. Kevin chose to use 3/4" tubing on top of the 3/8" line to give plenty of slip room to get the sleeving over the top.

  3. Use a hair dryer to shrink the tubing.

  4. A hose clamp (figure D) goes over the tubing.

  5. Snug the hose clamp.

  6. Slip the "fitted ends" (figure E) that comes with the kit over top of the hose clamp and crimp them with a regular pair of pliers.

• Remove each existing oil line hose and measure for the new lines.

• Make the new hoses using the old lines as guides.

• Construct the needed t-fittings (figure F).

• Install the new lines, which are attached to the homemade oil cooler fitting (figure G) and tighten it into place.

  Tip: It helps to add a dab of oil to the end of the fittings so they will slip on easily.

• Finally, the new lines are attached to the engine.

In the next episode a new drive chain is installed, and the rear wheel and fender are removed for the primary chain and brake work. Kevin inspects the rear hydraulic brake system, discussed the brake fluid specifications and uses a compressed air tool to bleed the brakes. The brake system work is completed by servicing the front mechanical brakes, installing a new brake cable, cleaning the brakes and installing new brake shoes.

RESOURCES :

Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com

Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear)
Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com

RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

Performance Carburetor, Camshaft and Other Restoration Parts (S & S Cycle Inc.)
S & S Cycle Inc.
Website: www.sycycle.com

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com