DIY Network

Purge Oil Tank, Replace Oil Filter, Magnetic Drain Plug and Web Extras From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-103

In the first segment host Kevin Tetz upgraded the carburetor on DIY's project 1965 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide. Now he's ready to inspect the oiling system. One of the easiest things a hobbyist can do is to clean the oil tank and replace the filter because it only takes a couple of hours and few bucks.

Figure A

Purging the Oil Tank and Replacing the Filter

• The oil was drained in the last episode's fuel-system segment.

  Note: The oil tank and oil filter are located under the seat frame of the '65 Electra Glide.

• The replacement filter (figure A) is called a "horse hair" filter, and it has been in on the market since 1948 and it's still available today.

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Figure B

• Pour a couple of ounces of kerosene into the oil tank to thin the motor oil and help flush it out. Move the bike around to mix in the kerosene with the oil

  Safety Alert: Please be sure to follow safety precautions when working with flammable liquids. And don't forget to work in a well ventilated area.

• Get the drain pan in place and use Kevin's specialized Harley-Davidson tool -- a creased piece of cardboard with a wire hook create a great funnel. Loosen the drain plug and let the fluid drain out.

• Once again pour a couple of ounces of kerosene into the tank to flush the system, replace the drain plug, shake the bike, loosen the plug and drain the fluid.

• Use a air-hose (figure B) and rag to blow out the residual kerosene. The rag serves the purpose of stopping all the air from coming out so it can force the remaing fluid through the drain. Don't worry about the leftover kerosene. It will mix with the new oil and be fine.

Figure C

• The new oil-drain plug for the project bike will have a magnet attached (figure C -- new one on left) as opposed to the old one that didn't. The purpose of a magnet in an oil-drain plug is to attract metal particles and keep them from circulating in the oiling system.

  
  Cool Trick: If your oil-plug drain doesn't have a magnet all you need to do is pick up a magnet at a craft or hobby store, clean the surfaces that are going to be bonding together and use a two-part bonding adhesive. It's important to make sure that you have equal parts with the two-bond system.

  
  Scuff up the surfaces of the plug and magnet with sandpaper or a rotary tool, which will create a "tooth" for which the epoxy can adhere. Simply apply a thin coat of the adhesive to both surfaces and attach and let dry.

How to Test for a Leak In Your Engine Guard (Web Extra)

1. After threading both holes that were drilled for oil inlets, plus one hole with a correct size threaded bolt to seal the end.

   
   

2. Spray some soapy water on any joints or welds on the guard or mounting plates.

   
   

3. On the other inlet, blow into the hole using a compressed air gun and watch for bubbles around joints or welds.

Note: If you see bubbles there is a potential leak that needs to be sealed. Thus must be done before running oil through the guard to be on the safe side. Kevin and Dunk didn't do this with the project bike guard because the instant they drilled through the first mounting plate a rush of air pushed past the drill, telling them that the hollow guard was sealed.

Re-sealing the Engine Guard (Web Extra)

Although engine guards aren't traditionally expensive -- and are easily replaced -- repair is obviously the first consideration. The first option is to replace with a new unit, pressure test again and check for seals. If you find leaks or holes, they can be welded, but the guard will most likely have to be re-chromed, which can be expensive and cost prohibitive. A good second option for repair is to do the following:

• Thoroughly clean the surface surrounding the leak.

• Slightly scuff it with 180-grit sandpaper in a small area around the hole.

• Using a two-part epoxy adhesive. Simply mix the adhesive and seal the leak from the outside, keeping the repair as small as possible. Sometimes it's difficult to see the repair, depending on the location. But if it's visible, simple applications of touch-up paint with a bright silver color will hide the repair and give a perfectly acceptable appearance, as well as a solid cost-effective repair.

RESOURCES :

Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com

Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear)
Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com

RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

Performance Carburetor, Camshaft and Other Restoration Parts (S & S Cycle Inc.)
S & S Cycle Inc.
Website: www.sycycle.com

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com