DIY Network

Carburetor Upgrade From "Classic Rides" episode DCLR-103

In this third episode of nine, host Kevin Tetz (seen here) and Dunk, resident Harley-Davidson expert mechanic, upgrade the carburetor and service the engine oil of DIY's project 1965 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide.

There were only approximately 7,000 Harley-Davidson panhead Electra Glides made in 1965 and DIY's project bike is one of them. The Electra Glide was an immediate success then and it's a valuable collector ride now.

In the first two episodes of this nine-episode project, host Kevin Tetz and Bill "Dunk" Dunkelberger, our resident Harley-Davidson expert mechanic, have made impressive progress on this restoration project by upgrading the camshaft to a modern high-performance unit and installing a new intake manifold, while refurbishing the tappet blocks and lifters in the process.

Next on the restoration agenda is to upgrade the carburetor, and Kevin and Dunk will achieve this by installing a high-performance carburetor that will breathe more efficiently, expend better fuel economy and more importantly, help the bike run better.

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The original '65 correct carburetor (figure A -- original on left and the new model on the right) doesn't compare to the newer models out today (on right in photo, right). You can see the difference in the throat of the two models. The intake volume for the newer model has expansive flow, which will in turn enhance the new camshaft on our project bike. In fact, there will be much better "feel" when driving the bike.

Ditto the story goes for the intake manifold (figure B) -- old one on the right and the new one on the left). There's a huge difference in the port and the newer model also has a longer stack (figure C), which will provide more velocity.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

Here (figure D) is the original air-cleaner assembly that came on the bike, and it's fine for stock air flow, but we're enhancing the air flow of the project cycle.

Check out the difference with the new air-cleaner assembly (figure E). This model is more open, which allows more air access. The old filter (figure F) is foam and saturated with oil and will be replaced by a new paper version that's washable a reusable.

Figure D

Figure E

Figure F

Figure G

Note: Dunk brought in a Venturi-design air-filter assembly (figure G), which features louvers on the side and a tapered tube that funnels air into the mouth of the carburetor and increases the air-flow velocity.

This model will go on the project bike!

Installing the High-Performance Carburetor

• The manifold has already been installed, but it was left a little loose in order to have room to put the stabilizer bracket (figure H) on. Be sure to install the bracket on the crankcase stud, located at the top of the crankcase between the cylinders -- and secure it with a stud nut.

• The insulator block and carburetor (figure I -- block is on the right) both have an O-ring seal. The O-ring seal goes to the flat -- or the machine -- surface, the flat surface of the insulator block in this case.

Figure H

Figure I

	Figure J
	Figure K

• Place the insulator block sits on top of the stabilizer bracket and the carburetor on top of the insulator block (figure J). Simply thread the stud nut through and hang the insulator block on it and then set the carburetor in place.

  Tip: Don't tighten anything down until you get "all" the fasteners in first. The reason you don't want to tighten anything is because you're handling aluminum and need to have even pressure as the surfaces come together. When installing aluminum parts snug all the bolts first and then go back and tighten evenly.

• From the opposite side align the carburetor and bracket -- and then tighten the bolts evenly. Add a drop of blue threadlocker to the bracket mounting bolt to prevent it from vibrating loose. Be sure to use the "blue" because it will hold it in place but allow you to loosen the fasteners down the road if need be. The "red" lock-tight will make that a difficult task. Tighten the stabilizer bracket.

• Now you can secure the manifold that was left loose earlier while installing the carburetor. Since you're dealing with aluminum again, be sure to only give the bolts a snug fit -- not tight.

• Align the gasket on the air-cleaner vacuum plate (figure K), install the plate onto the carburetor studs and install the mounting bolts. Get them threaded by hand and then tighten them down.

  Note: The fasteners also have lock washers so they're not going to back off. Between the lock-tight and the lock washers, you'll get a vibration-proof mount. And if you've ever ridden an old Harley-Davidson, you're going to need it.

• The air filter goes on next, and then the cover (figure L).

  FYI -- With this upgrade the fast-idle switch, which used to be on the other side inside the motor and underneath the tank, is now in a convenient spot (figure M) underneath the seat where's it'll be easy to find.

Figure L

Figure M

In the next segment the oil system will be purged and cleaned.

RESOURCES :

Dremel Tools
Website: www.dremel.com

Eazyrizer Big Blue Motorcycle Lift (Driven Gear)
Driven Gear Inc.
Website: www.drivengear.com

RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
SnapLock Industries
Website: www.racedeck.com

Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
Custom Chrome
Website: www.customchrome.com

Performance Carburetor, Camshaft and Other Restoration Parts (S & S Cycle Inc.)
S & S Cycle Inc.
Website: www.sycycle.com

GUESTS :

William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
1409 Piney Rd.
Maryville, TN 37803
Phone: 865-681-7699
E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com