AUTOS & BOATS Index
Auto Restoration & Kit Cars
1962 Corvette
1968 Chevrolet Camaro
1968 Chevrolet Camaro
1969 Alfa-Romeo Spider
Replica & Kit Cars
Vintage American Cars
Vintage Import Cars

Air Conditioning
Automotive Body Work
Automotive Cooling System
Electrical Systems
Exhaust System
Fuel Systems
Boats
Brakes
Buying
Detailing
Engine
Exterior
Interior
Parts & Accessories
Safety
Security
Small Engines
Stereo
Suspension
Tires
Tools
Trailers
Transmission
Vehicle Types
Windows

Best of Autos Boats
Classic Car Restoration
Preventive Maintenance
Ultimate Car-Care Guide

SPONSOR LINKS
Carpet Replacement
Convertible Tops

  • Remove Camshaft and Refurbish the Tappet Blocks
  • From "Classic Rides"
    episode DCLR-102


    Host Kevin Tetz left the oil draining in the last segment, and now Bill "Dunk" Dunkelberger, our resident Harley-Davidson expert, joins him to dig into the camshaft upgrade.

    According to Dunk you'll save anywhere from $300 to $500 by doing the camshaft upgrade yourself. If you're a hobbyist, you'll need a little bit of mechanical knowledge because you'll be digging into the heart of the motor, where there will be no room for error. If the camshaft is put together incorrectly, you'll be in trouble!

    PHOTO

    Figure A
    Upgrading the Camshaft

    • Kevin disassembles the oil lines while Dunk works on removing the brake pedal.

    • Next collapse the push-rod tubes (cover), and the easy way to do this is to put a screwdriver underneath and twist (figure A).

    advertisement


    • Now Dunk introduces Kevin to his "very special Harley tool" -- a clothespin. "These are worth their weight in gold," Dunk explains. "Any Harley mechanic that doesn't have these does not work on old Harley-Davidsons."

      When you collapse the tube you put a clothespin on so it will secure it (figure B) so you can get to the adjustment pieces. Another tip is to always put your wrenches apart and then squeeze together in order "not" to pinch your fingers.

    • Dunk continues collapsing the push rod and removes the first one (figure C).

      Note: Dunk says to be sure to keep the established wear rush-rod pattern for the ones that sit "up" into the rocker arms and the ones the bottom ones sitting into the lifter.

    • Dunk starts on the tappet block bolts next. The tappet blocks house the valve lifters (figure D), which work the push rods.
    Photo

    Figure B

    Photo

    Figure C

    Photo

    Figure D


    • With a tap of the mallet the tappet blocks and their gaskets come loose (figure E).

    • Remove the tappet blocks by holding the top of the lifters (figure F). Here again, just like with the push rods, keep the tappet blocks in sequence.

      Note: Store the lifters and tappet blocks in order -- in labeled bags. There will be a front exhaust, rear intake, a rear exhaust and front intake.

    • The last thing to do before the cover is pulled off is to check the cam for back-and-forth movement and up-and-down movement. If it feels tight, it's fine.

    • Move on to the kidney cover (figure G). For the project bike Dunk discovered that the screws were extremely loose, which means he'll use Threadlocker on the screws when he reassembles it. The long generator mounting screws come out, and as always, it's important to bag and label these.
    Photo

    Figure E

    Photo

    Figure F

    Photo

    Figure G


    PHOTO

    Figure H

    • The last screw to remove is one that has a small gasket on it to seal the oil passage. To loosen the kidney cover, tap it around the side with a mallet. Don't pry it open using a screwdriver or you "may" damage the mating surfaces.

    • You're left with the heart of the motor (figure H) -- the cam, generator drive gear, timing gear, which runs the distributor, the pinion (the gear that comes off the fly wheel) and the breather gear, which allows the motor to breathe when the pistons are going up and down.

    • With the bike in fourth gear, Dunk spins the tires and the motor in order to set up the timing marks before removing the camshaft.

      Note: Because of the gear ratio, fourth gear is the easiest to spin the motor.

      FYI -- The timing marks are stamped into the gears to indicate proper alignment between the pistons and the valves.

    • In taking the cam apart, Dunk noticed that a steel shim was too tight and that the cam gear thrust washer was shot, and it will be replaced with the new cam.

    • While Dunk is out getting parts, Kevin will bead blast and paint the tappet blocks.

    In the next segment Kevin and Dunk will install the new cam.


    RESOURCES :

    The Eastwood Company

    The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.

    The Easthill Group, Inc.
    The Eastwood Company
    Website: www.eastwoodco.com

    RaceDeck Modular Flooring (SnapLock Industries)
    SnapLock Industries
    Website: www.racedeck.com

    Ultimate Harley-Davidson
    0789499746
    Hugo Wilson
    (October, 2003)
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    Dorling Kindersley / DK Publishing

    Hugo Wilson's Hot Bikes
    0751336947
    Hugo Wilson
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    Penguin Books

    The Harley-Davidson Century
    0760311552
    Darwin Holmstrom
    (September, 2002)
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    Motorbooks International

    Restoration Parts (Custom Chrome)
    Custom Chrome
    Website: www.customchrome.com

    Performance Carburetor, Camshaft and Other Restoration Parts (S & S Cycle Inc.)
    S & S Cycle Inc.
    Website: www.sycycle.com

    Ironclad Gloves

    Manufacturers of work gloves for all types of work including automotive. Griptec™ Gloves with 3M gReptile™ gripping material.

    Website: www.iclad.com

    Motorcycle Restoration Parts (In the Wind Motorcycle Parts)
    In Wind Motorcycle Parts
    508 Lovell Rd.
    Knoxville, TN 37932
    Phone: 865-560-5650 or 865-777-0884
    Fax: 865-777-0886


    GUESTS :

    William "Dunk" Dunkelberger
    Restoration Coordinator / Mechanic
    Harrly Hoggs & Piggletts
    1409 Piney Rd.
    Maryville, TN 37803
    Phone: 865-681-7699
    E-mail: hoggsandpiggletts@yahoo.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: