DIY Network

1962 Ford T-Bird: Wheels and Tires From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-309

Kelsey Hays wire wheels were standard on the sports roadster version of the 1962 Thunderbird, but were a pricey option on the regular T-bird.

In this segment, the 1962 Thunderbird gets a new set of wire wheels and restoration-correct performance tires.

Materials:

Standard automotive tools (socket-wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
Pneumatic tools (optional)
Replacement wheels and tires
Car-jack and jack stands
Tire cleaner
Firm-bristle brush

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending on model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

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Kelsey Hayes Wire Wheels

One of the more distinctive features of the '62 Thunderbird's "sports roaster" option was its wire wheels. The 14x6-inch Kelsey Hayes wire wheels were standard equipment on all sports roadsters in 1962 and '63. As an add-on option for a standard T-bird, Ford's price tag for these was $300 back in 1962 -- equivalent to more than $1000 in today's dollars. We were able to obtain some reconditioned originals, to replace the cheap wheels that had been put on our project vehicle at some point in its earlier life. And the restoration-correct originals did cost about $1000. The reconditioned wheels were visibly in good condition, and they came with the historically correct spinner caps (figure A).

The Kelsey-Hays wire wheels did receive some bad publicity when first introduced as the 1/4-inch spokes were not terribly strong, and the wheels were known to occasionally collapse. (And that very thing once happened to The King, Elvis Presley in his 1962 Thunderbird.) Ford and Kelsey Hayes later remedied that design flaw with stronger 5/16-inch spokes.

Another problem area arose from the holes in the wheel-hoop where the spoke holes extended through (figure B). These spoke-holes were know for leaking air. Although Ford first tried to remedy that situation by specifying special tires and liners for the sports-roadster option, eventually it became evident that the best fix was to use only tubed tires with the wire wheels.

Figure A

Figure B

Bias-Ply vs. Radial Tires

The historically correct tires for the Thunderbird are BF Goodrich bias-ply 800 14's (figure C). However, bias-ply tires have a soft and flexible side-wall that don't allow the tires to provide the best possible handling.

We opted, instead, to install modern radial tires of the proper size. For everyday-style driving and safety, we installed BF Goodrich 205-75 14's (figure D). The radial construction provides a stiffer side-wall so that the tire doesn't deflect as much around corners, thus providing safer and better handling. The radials also provide improved fuel economy since they don't have as much rolling resistance as the bias ply tires. Our reproduction tires feature a period-correct 1-5/8" side-wall band.

Figure C

Figure D

Because of the spoke design of the wheels, the tubes used must be specified for use in either radial or bias-ply tires (figure E).

The reproduction whitewall tires are shipped with a protective blue film over the whitewalls to prevent blemishing. Use tire-cleaner spray and a firm-bristle brush to clean away the blue tint (figure F).

Figure E

Figure F

	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I
	Figure J
	Figure K

Installing the Wheels and Tires

• With the car on a jack and jack-stands, we began our wheel and tire installation by removing the old hubcaps (figure G).

• With the hubcaps removed, remove the wheel nuts and lift off the wheel.

• Tip: To make installation of the new wheel easier, rotate the drum so that one of the wheel studs is facing the "noon position" (figure H). Orient the wheel so that one of the wheel-stud holes is also in the noon position. This makes it easier to line up the studs with the corresponding holes.

• Lift the wheel into position (figure I) and place it onto the studs.

• Place the lug nuts back onto the studs. If the lug nuts are rusted, you may need to lubricate the threads so that they will go back on more easily. Start the nuts by hand to ensure that you don't cross threads when installing them, then go back and snug the nuts gently so that they are seated against the wheel (figure J).

• By lowering the car down on the jack (figure K), the weight of the car is back on the wheel, and final tightening of the nuts can begin.

• To install the lug-nuts properly, we used a torque wrench to tighten each to 85 foot-pounds. Tighten the nuts following a "star pattern," tightening every other nut until all are tightened to the proper spec.

  Safety Alert: It's important to install well lug-nuts properly, and according to manufacturer's specs. Over-tightening the lug nuts or installing them improperly can distort the brake drum and cause unsafe braking conditions.