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 The 1962 Thunderbird is now in good shape mechanically, but it still needs some cosmetic work to bring it back to its original beauty.
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 Kevin Tetz of paintuction.com helps us assess the paint and finish.
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In this segment, Kevin Tetz of paintucation.com pays a visit to Classic Car Restoration and gives advice restoring a dull paint finish. He's able to test the finish and determine that our '62 Thunderbird's has a clear-coat finish. He then shows how to bring life back to this type of automotive finish even after it has become old and dull, and spares us from the need of having the car repainted.Materials: Electric buffer and pads Polishing compound Automotive-paint sandpaper (600-grit) Lacquer thinner Rags Plastic squeegee Spray bottle Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.
Restoring a Clear-Coat FinishOur 1962 Thunderbird Sports Roadster has been sitting in long term hibernation for a long time. The paint's a little bit dull and dingy looking, but we've washed it and the good news is our next expert seems to think that we can save the paint. Kevin Tetz of paintuction.com helps us assess the paint and finish. Kevin's plan is to color-sand it to remove the oxidation from the paint surface, then buff the finish to give it a new-car appearance. According to Kevin, both age and improper storage have contributed to a dull look on the T-bird's finish. Before we begin the color-sanding process, which actually removes the oxidation on the top layer of the paint, it's critical to determine what type of paint we're actually dealing with. So, as seen in the demonstration with some sample fender-pieces, we conduct a couple of tests that help do that. (If you're doing this on an actual car, you'll want to select a test-spot that's not too conspicuous.) - Using fine 600-grit sandpaper, we sand a small area in a circle using light fingertip pressure. The sanding reveals white sanding dust (figure A), which tells us immediately that this is a clear-coated fender, which is a pretty strong finish and safe to buff.
The test on the next fender reveals red sanding dust (figure B) which indicates that there is no clear-coat finish on that painted surface. Any color-sanding on this pigment-finish paint may alter or damage the finish significantly. A test on a third fender also results in colored sanding dust, indicating a pigment finish without a clear-coat, which could be damaged during the color-sanding process.
Next Kevin tests the paint surface using lacquer-thinner. He applies thinner to a rag and rubs the surface. On the first fender there is no color residue is left on the rag, indicating that the color finish has not softened. The surface is slick, hard and can safely be color-sanded. Rubbing on the second fender also leaves no residue indicating that, though this is a pigment finish, it is still stable enough to withstand color sanding. On the third fender-sample paint residue comes off and is visible on the rag, indicating that color-sanding is not an option in this case.Using these tests on our Thunderbird indicates that our project car already has a clear-coat finish, and can safely be color-sanded. Kevin begins by protecting exposed edges and corners on the vehicle using masking tape. This will protect the thinner edges of paint from the buffer that will be used later. Chrome trim is also removed from the car's body and hood. On the T-bird, these pieces are simply secured with trim-nuts, so they are easily removed.
As Kevin explains, the key to color-sanding is using fine-grit sandpaper and keeping the surface wet (figure C).He folds the wet sandpaper around a sanding block that has a hard surface on one side, and soft surface on the other (figure D). Only the soft surface is used for the color-sanding since the objective is simply to remove the thin, top layer of finish. Extremely fine grades of sandpaper are used for this job.
Grit gradations for color-sanding paper range from 600-grit all the way up to 4000-grit on which the abrasiveness of the sanding surface is barely perceptible. For this job, Kevin uses 3000-grit sandpaper, which feels to the touch much like ordinary notebook paper. Kevin also adds a few drops of mild dishwashing soap to the water he uses to moisten the sandpaper. This helps lubricate the surface and keep the paper pliable. He sprays some of the soapy water over surface of the car where he is working and begins the sanding process. He sands in small circles, using a gentle pressure. He then uses a soft, plastic squeegee to remove the water and check his progress (figure E). He continues in this manner until the sanded area appears just slightly less glossy than the surrounding area. Once the area has been sanded to the proper point, the area is dried with a clean towel. Now the buffing process can begin. Kevin prefers to use an electric circular buffer that has a velcro surface that allows the thick-foam buffing pads to be changed out easily (figure F).
This finishing process is a two-step process that employs a fairly aggressive polishing with a rubbing compound, followed by a machine glaze. Following that, a wax or hand-polish can be applied.Kevin applies a small amount of rubbing compound directly to the hood (figure G). He then primes the foam pad and hood's surface with plain water. He avoids saturating the surfaces, but just moistens them slightly. Moistening the surface is important since it prevents dry contact which can cause swirl-marks and scratches. He sets the buffer on the lowest speed and buffs the surface using no body pressure, letting just the compound and the weight of the buffer do the work (figure H).
Before moving on to the next buffing stage, he cleans the area using glass cleaner to remove any buffing compound and residue. He then changes the pad to a thinner and finer grade pad (figure I) which will be used to complete the polishing process.He again sprays the pad and surface with a small amount of plain water, and applies a finer finishing-glaze compound. Again, he polishes using the buffer on a low speed (figure J). Kevin also suggests a second application to completely polish the surface and fill in any scratches.
Finally, Kevin uses a micro-fiber polishing cloth to finish the job.In the segment that follows, Kevin Tetz provides some tips on repairing scratches and stone-chips in paint.
RESOURCES :
Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
Model: 1850108900
Author: Lindsay Porter
Order this book from Amazon.com
Haynes Publishing
Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners and Restorers of Classic and Collectible Automobiles
1557881944
Jim Richardson
(November 1994)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
H.P. Books
T-birds.com
T-Birds.com
A website dedicated to the appreciation of 1961 through 1963 Ford Thunderbirds. Hard-to-find restoration parts and materials, including reconditioned original t-bird body parts, can be found through t-birds.com.
Thunderbird Restoration Guide, 1958-1966 (Motorbooks International Authentic Restoration Guides)
by William Wonder
Published by Motorbooks International, June 1997
ASIN: 0760303908
To order this book from Amazon.com, click here.
The Eastwood Company
The Eastwood Company is a supplier of automotive-restoration parts, tools and supplies.
The Easthill Group, Inc.
The Eastwood Company
Website: www.eastwoodco.com
GUESTS :
Kevin Tetz
paintucation.com
Paintucation.com specialized in automotive body, paint and restoration services and instructional restoration videos.
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