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  • 1962 Fort T-Bird: Weather Stripping Repair
  • From "Classic Car Restoration"
    episode DCR-306


    PHOTO

    The 1962 Thunderbird sports roadster is about to receive some much-needed exterior restoration.
    PHOTO

    Walter Vaughan of the Steele Rubber Products Company provides information and assistance in our repairs to the T-bird's weather-stripping.
    With the work that's been done on the engine, drive-train and suspension of our '62 Thunderbird, the car is now in fairly good shape mechanically. In this episode of DIY's Classic Car Restoration we begin work on the body and trim restoration of the vehicle. In this first segment, the focus is weather-stripping repair.

    When we started our restoration project, we started with a car that had a lot of potential, but needed plenty of work. Thus far in the restoration, we've serviced the suspension, driveshaft, fuel system and brakes. We've upgraded the differential and exhaust system, and have added performance enhancements to the engine including aluminum cylinder heads, aluminum intake manifold and an performance carburetor. The performance have brought the vehicle's stock 300 horsepower rating up to about 350 hp. At this point, we turn our attention to the body and cosmetics of the car.

    In terms of the metal parts, water can get inside the car and underneath various surfaces causing rust and deterioration. Another element that is particularly vulnerable to age and exposure to the elements is the weather-stripping.

    Materials:

    Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
    Replacement weather-stripping
    Weather-stripping adhesive
    Air compressor and impact wrenches (optional)
    Soap and water solution
    Spray bottle
    Plastic putty-knife
    Spray adhesive remover

    Safety Equipment:

    Work gloves
    Safety glasses or other eye protection

    Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.
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    PHOTO

    Figure A

    Weather Stripping Repair

    Weather-stripping is one of the most often overlooked areas of restoration. Fortunately it's also one of the easiest things for a do-it-yourselfer to repair. Walter Vaughan from the Steele Rubber Products Company helped us evaluate the weather-stripping situation on our project car. According to Steve, after-market replacement rubber parts are available for most car models as far back as the 1920s.

    Steve also points out that the two biggest enemies to rubber parts on a vehicle are sunlight and ozone. The rubber starts breaking apart and basically crumbles (figure A). Since rubber is an organic compound, it's affected by the same factors that cause our skin to age.

    • We begin the repair with the quarter-window leading edge where the weather-strip has begun to break apart and flake away. When new, this strip should slide right out, but since it's been on this vehicle for such a long time, it some pulling and tugging is required to remove it (figure B).

    • We replaced the old strip with a new one. With this piece of stripping, the sharp, angled end that's got an angle goes to the bottom. There's a track inside the window's edge. Simply insert the strip in the track and slide it up (figure C). If you meet resistance, and can't slide the strip all the way into position, remove it and spray it with a solution of soap and water to lubricate the rubber. It should then go on more easily.
      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C



    • Continue around the car, evaluating and replacing weather stripping as needed. Our next replacement was the door weather-stripping. To do that, use a screwdriver remove the screws at the top of the old weather stripping (figure D).

      Use spray adhesive-remover to remove the old glue (figure E). This solvent is designed not to damage the paint finish.
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E



      Continue peeling away the old rubber as you continue to spray the area with adhesive remover. For difficult spots, you can use a plastic putty knife to help loosen the stripping (figure F), using caution not to chip the paint. Continue around the door and to the end of the stripping that runs up the vent-window sill.

      Use additional adhesive remover as needed to loosen any remaining rubber. It's important to remove all traces of old stripping and adhesive (figure G) so that the new weather stripping can bond to a clean, flat surface.
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G



      Once the surface is clean and dry, apply the weather-strip adhesive. Apply a thin bead along the door-frame (figure H), then spread the adhesive out to a thin film using the tip of your finger. Also apply a bead of adhesive to the back side of the new weather stripping. Since this is a contact adhesive, applying it to both surfaces is important.

      With the adhesive applied to both surfaces, put the new weather stripping in place (figure I) and secure it with the screws.
      Photo

      Figure H

      Photo

      Figure I



      Continue applying the stripping around the door and up the other side, securing the end of the strip to the vent-window sill (figure J).

      That end of the stripping is secured with a screw as well (figure K). Once that screw is in place, this section of door stripping is complete. Repeat the steps, if necessary, on the other door.
      Photo

      Figure J

      Photo

      Figure K



      Other rubber components we replaced included the cowl-vent seal and the hood-bumper tabs. The new cowl-vent seal (figure L) is positioned and secured in place with the cowl-vent panel and screws. An awl was used to punch holes into the new rubber to accommodate the screws.

      The rubber hood bumpers (figure M) are installed with screws, and they keep the hood from rattling.
      Photo

      Figure L

      Photo

      Figure M



    In the segment that follows, Kevin Tetz of paintucation.com pays a visit to Classic Car Restoration and gives advice restoring a dull paint finish.


    RESOURCES :

    Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
    Model: 1850108900
    Author: Lindsay Porter
    Order this book from Amazon.com
    Haynes Publishing

    Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners and Restorers of Classic and Collectible Automobiles
    1557881944
    Jim Richardson
    (November 1994)
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    H.P. Books

    Thunderbird Restoration Guide, 1958-1966 (Motorbooks International Authentic Restoration Guides)
    by William Wonder
    Published by Motorbooks International, June 1997
    ASIN: 0760303908
    To order this book from Amazon.com, click here.

    Illustrated Thunderbird Buyer's Guide (Motorbooks International Illustrated Buyer's Guide)
    by Paul G. McLaughlin
    Publisher: Motorbooks International (July 2000)
    ASIN: 0879388706
    To order this book from Amazon.com, click here.


    GUESTS :
    Walter Vaughn, Steele Rubber Products
    Steele Rubber Products
    6180 Hwy 150 East
    Denver NC, 28037
    www.steelerubber.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: