DIY Network

1962 Fort T-Bird: Refurbishing the Leaf Springs From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-303

	In 1962 Ford built 1,427 Thunderbird sports roadsters, and in 1963 they built only 455. So in all, fewer than 2,000 authentic roadsters were built. We were lucky enough to locate one of them for this classic-car restoration project.
	Thunderbird expert Rob Duddy assists with the leaf-spring refurbishment.

In this episode, the 1962 Thunderbird gets upgrades to the suspension, driveshaft and fuel system -- including refurbishment of the leaf springs, addition of modern shock-absorbers, replacement of the worn-out U-joint, installation of new fuel lines and refurbishment of the gas tank. In this first segment Thunderbird expert Rob Duddy, of Tbirds.com, joins host Steve Magnante for the rebuild of our sports roadster's leaf-spring suspension system.

Materials:

Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
Torque wrench
Air compressor and impact wrenches (optional)
Pry bar
Replacement bushings and insulator pads
Jack and jack-stands
Floor jack
Spray lubricant
Spray rubber-conditioner

Safety Equipment:

Work gloves
Safety glasses or other eye protection

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

Leaf-Spring Suspension

After the 40 years of this T-bird's life, the leaf springs, bushings and pads are worn out. Following is a summary of the major steps in the refurbishment of the leaf-spring suspension.

• With the car on a lift, the weight of the axle must be supported from underneath to perform this job. A floor-jack is used to support the axle and take the weight off the leaf-spring suspension.

• With the axle supported, the rusted bolts on the leaf springs are sprayed with penetrating oil (figure A) to facilitate loosening them.

• Using the appropriate socket or an impact wrench, remove the lower shock-absorber nut, and move the shock absorber so that it's out of the way.

• Disconnect the clip that holds the parking-brake cable, and let it hang so that it's out of the way also.

• Using the appropriate socket or an impact wrench, loosen the U-bolt nuts that hold the spring-plate in the center of the leaf spring (figure B).

• Next, remove the four hanger mounting-bolts that hold the front shackle to the body of the car. (The entire hanger will be removed with the spring assembly.)

• With the hanger mounting-bolts removed, the U-bolts that hold the center of the leaf spring can be removed. With the bolts removed, the spring clip-plate drops off, and the spring's center can be lowered down.

• Have one person support the spring while an a second person removes the shackle-assembly bolts. With those bolts removed, the front of the leaf-spring can be lowered as well (figure C).

• Using a socket wrench, remove the rear-shackle assembly bolts (figure D), remove the shackle-plate and pull the shackle-assembly apart to release the leaf spring.

• With the leaf-spring removed, it can be placed on a work surface for close inspection and disassembly (figure E). The spring will need to be taken apart -- working from front to back -- to replace the bushings on the front shackle, the insulator pads and the rear bushings.
  
• Spray the front shackle with penetrating oil to loosen the assembly, then use a socket or impact wrench to loosen the front shackle bolt. Use a pry bar to disassemble the front shackle and hanger (figure F).

• Then use the pry-bar to remove the old bushing from the spring (figure G), and install a new bushing in its place.

  Figure F

  Figure G

  
  

  	Figure H
  	Figure I
  	Figure J

• Moving on to the insulator pads at the spring's center, use the pry bar to lift up the insulator housing, and peel off the old insulator pad (figure H). Our insulator was clearly worn out.

• Turn the spring over and repeat the process to remove the other pad.

  Tip: It's helpful to mark the spring and housing with a white marker to help simplify reassembly.

• It's a good idea to clean the parts to ensure they are free of dirt and debris before reassembling.

• Install the new insulator pads in place of the old ones (figure I), and reinstall the housing plates.

• Next, slide out the rear shackle, remove the old bushing and replace it with a new ones (figure J). Do the same for the top rear-shackle bushings that are still attached to the car.
  

  	Figure K
  	Figure L
  	Figure M
  	Figure N

• To reassemble the front hanger, remove the new lower bushing, slip the hanger in place, place the bushing back in and slip the through-bolt through the hanger and bushings. A hammer or mallet may be required to get the bolt through the bushing.

  Tip: It's a good idea to spray the bolt with rubber conditioner to help seat it through the new rubber bushing.

• Once the bolt is through, thread the retaining nut onto the bolt and tighten it down using a socket or impact wrench (figure K). Tightening the nut pulls the bushing firmly into place.

• With the new bushings installed, the leaf springs can be reinstalled on the car, attaching the front shackle first.

• Position the hanger assembly and secure it with the hanger bolts.

• Raise the rear portion of the spring into position and reassemble the shackle by adding the shackle-bar (figure L). Using a socket wrench, tighten down the nuts --but avoid over-tightening the shackle.

• Tighten down the front shackle hanger.

• To secure the center of the leaf springs, carefully lower the jack stand and let the axle come down. Then use the jack stand to raise the spring up (figure M) so that the spring plate and U-bolts can be secured.

• This will also serve to move the rear shackle up and into its proper position (figure N).
  
• With the center of the leaf-spring in place, the bottom of the insulator housing plate can be installed, and the spring-clip plate put on (figure O) and secured with U-bolts and nuts.

• With the U-bolts secured and the spring complete, reattach the rear shock to the lower mounting plate (figure P).

  Figure O

  Figure P

  
  

RESOURCES :

Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
Model: 1850108900
Author: Lindsay Porter
Order this book from Amazon.com
Haynes Publishing

Haynes Restoration Manual Classic Car Interior: The Complete Illustrated
Model: 185010932X
Author: Ken Henson

To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Motorbooks International

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Car Care and Repair Illustrated
0028644328
Dan Ramsey
(December 2002)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Alpha Books

Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners and Restorers of Classic and Collectible Automobiles
1557881944
Jim Richardson
(November 1994)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
H.P. Books

T-birds.com
T-Birds.com
A website dedicated to the appreciation of 1961 through 1963 Ford Thunderbirds. Hard-to-find restoration parts and materials, including reconditioned original t-bird body parts, can be found through t-birds.com.

GUESTS :

Rob Duddy
T-Birds.com